Americans abroad · European travel · ex-pat life · international travel · Italian food · Italy

Mangia, Mangia!

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“Watching Italians eat (especially men, I have to say) is a form of tourism the books don’t tell you about. They close their eyes, raise their eyebrows into accent marks, and make sounds of acute appreciation. It’s fairly sexy. Of course I don’t know how these men behave at home, if they help with the cooking or are vain and boorish and mistreat their wives. I realized Mediterranean cultures have their issues. Fine, don’t burst my bubble. I didn’t want to marry these guys, I just wanted to watch.”
― Barbara KingsolverAnimal, Vegetable, Miracle: A Year of Food Life

Americans abroad · Emilia Romagna · Italian food · Italy · Parma Italy · parmigiano-reggiano · Prosciutto di Parma

Torta Fritta

Torta Fritta
Torta Fritta

One day, not long ago, I was craving this yummy little treat from the Emilia Romagna region of Italy. Torta Fritta as it is known in Parma or Gnocco Fritto if you are in the next town over because in Italy food is very regional and even if it is the exact same dish but it is in the next town it must have a different name.  Oh Italy, I do miss you.

Anyway, there I was in Sweden dreaming of Torta Fritta. Torta Fritta are little pillows of dough, lightly fried and puffed up. They are most often served warm and stuffed with Parmesan cheese, Prosciutto di Parma, salami and various meats. They are little pillows of culinary heaven.

The thought never entered my mind to make them from scratch, because, you know, I am not Italian and Italian cuisine (real Italian cuisine not the over worked American versions) is intimidating. So I foolishly tried to Macgyver it and I bought some pre-made, albeit fresh, pasta with the intention of flash frying it into pillows. It didn’t work. It wasn’t pretty. And it certainly wasn’t Torta Fritta.

What I forgot is that while living in Italy I discovered that most Italian recipes are actually quite simple. They pair a few ingredients that happen to compliment each other. They don’t over work, they don’t add too much. They let the flavors meld and do all the work. Then I remembered that one of my favorite gifts that I received when moving from Parma was a cookbook given to me by my gem of a friend, the amazing Beatrice Zambelloni Papoccia. Bea is the Martha Stewart of Italy and one of the best cooks I have ever had the pleasure of tasting. She gave me a book titled Ten True Gems of Parmesan Cuisine. I cautiously opened it, searched for the recipe and said a little prayer to Don Alfonso.

Sidebar – Don Alfonso was the original proprietor of our favorite restaurant in Parma and the staff was kind enough to give me a commemorative photo of Don Alfonso when we moved. He sits on a shelf in my kitchen overseeing it all, and I like to believe, spreading good Italian food mojo around the kitchen.

torta fritta
The Don, overseeing it all.

I opened the cookbook and there it was. The recipe.

And here it is for you now:

​Torta Fritta – enough for 6

1/2 a kilo of white flour
water
salt

Mix the ingredients, adding enough water to obtain a rather soft dough. Roll out the dough to a thickness of 1/2 a centimeter. Cut it into rhomboids with a pasta cutter. Fry the pieces in oil or lard. Torta Fritta can be served hot with cheese and meat and if there happens to be any leftover, ​it is excellent eaten cold the next day, dipped into milky coffee or with jam.

I know what you are thinking. I know that you are judging me because it is soooo easy, but let me tell you when you have tasted fresh Torta Fritta that has been handmade by your neighbor’s nonna it tastes complicated. I also know that you want to know the precise measurements of the water and salt but this recipe has been handed down for hundreds of years and you will just have to work it out.

Finally, just because I am American, if you want to complicate the recipe, I read that sometimes, a drop of milk is added to soften the dough.

Buon appetito tutti!

Americans abroad · Bologna Italy · Emilia Romagna · ex-pat life · Italian food · Italy · Parma Italy

Cappelletti in Brodo

Cappelletti in Brodo  is a lovely Italian soup. This soup so simple, but packed with flavor and is popular in Italy during the winter months. It is also a staple of the Italian Christmas menu.

Cappelletti – little hats – are similar to tortellini. They are not tortellini though.  Cappelletti are made with squares of pasta rather than the circles used for tortellini. The squares are folded in half to make a triangle, then the two ends of the triangle are joined together to make a turned-up peak, which make them resemble the tri-cornered hat of the Italian army.  So, the top point is up for cappelletti or folded down for tortellini.

This is so simple it is a wonder that I never thought of it when living in the USA.  I also never saw it served anywhere in the USA.

If you are so inclined as to make the cappelletti from scratch, the recipe is below.

If you are short on time however, you can buy freshly made cappelletti and use a homemade broth. I recommend that the cappelletti is fresh though.

Cappelletti can be filled with meat, poultry or ricotta cheese.

 

For the Broth
The broth will vary according to your filling. For example, if you are filling the cappelletti with meat you will want a beef or pork based broth. If you are filling them with poultry, then make a chicken stock. If you are filling them with ricotta cheese, the broth base can be either meat or poultry based.

Here is a standard chicken based stock recipe.

1 whole chicken in pieces
1 tomato
2 stalks of celery, in chunks
2 carrots, chopped in chunks
2 large onions, chopped in chunkssprig of parsley
healthy pinch of salt
water

In a large stock pot add all ingredients and cover with water.Bring to a boil.
Lower the heat and simmer for 3-4 hours.
Strain your stock and discard the vegetables.

Pick the meat off the bone to use in the cappelletti.  Substitute beef and/or pork for a different filling and stock.

For the Pasta
You will need a pasta machine. You can get a pasta machine online for as little as $25.00. Using a pasta machine also helps to create a silky smooth pasta.

Before you begin, take your eggs out of the fridge and let them come to room temperature.

You will need:
3 eggs plus 1 egg yoke
3 cups of doppio zero “00″ flour if you can find it.  If not, you can use all-purpose flour, but try “00″ if you can get it. It is different than the flour typically used in the USA.
Pinch of salt

Put the flour in a large bowl and make a well in the center. Add the eggs and salt to the well and mix gently with a spatula. Slowly incorporate the flour. Mix in the remaining flour and place on a lightly floured counter. Knead for 10 minutes. The dough will soften up after it rests. Cut the dough in half and wrap each half in a damp cloth. Let the dough rest for one hour.

After the dough has rested:
Unwrap one of the dough pieces and cut it in half, re-wrap the remaining dough.
Cut your dough in half and roll it out on a floured surface.
Put your pasta machine on setting #1. Pass the dough through each setting (1 through 5) twice.
Lay the pasta dough on flat surface and cover it so that it doesn’t dry out as you put the remaining dough through the settings.

Cut the sheets so they are 2 inches wide.
Cut the pasta the other way so that you have 2 inch squares.

For the Filling
The filling can be meat, poultry or ricotta cheese. This recipe is for a composite meat filling.

1/4 lb ground veal or pork
1/8 lb prosciutto
1/8 lb mortadella
1 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
1 egg
1 tsp butter
nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste

Brown the ground pork and set it aside to cool. In a food processor, add the mortadella and prosciutto, pulsing to mix. Add the ground pork, butter, cheese, egg and pulse some more.

Place a little bit of filling in the center of each square.

Fold corner to corner so your square is now a triangle.

Dab a little water if you need it for the seal.

Take the two outer corners and fold them around your finger, pushing the center up.

Leave the “point” up as this is the signature of cappelletti.

 

Place on a lightly floured tray or wax paper. 

For the Cappelletti in Brodo

Simply bring the stock to a boil.
Add the cappelletti and cook until they bob to the surface.
Serve hot and top with shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and some good fresh bread.

Buon appetito!

Americans abroad · Emilia Romagna · Italian food · Italy · Parma Italy

Sbrisolona – The Yummy Traditional Crumbly Italian Almond Tart

Sbrisolona
Sbrisolona

Before we officially moved to Italy, my husband brought a Sbrisolona back with him on one of his commuter trips. I instantly fell in love with it and all its almondy deliciousness.

After arriving in Italy, I took a cooking class with some friends. I was delighted to see Sbrisolona on the menu and even happier to learn how simple it is to make. Sbrisolona is perfect in the morning with an espresso or cappuccino, but also a lovely end to your meal at night with some sweet dessert wine.

The History
Created around the 16th century in the Northern Italian countryside, near Mantua, Sbrisolona was a popular dessert among poor families. In order to save money, they would prepare the tart by mixing cornmeal, hazelnuts and lard.

Although made with inexpensive ingredients, Sbrisolona began to appear on the tables of the noble families of Mantua, including the Gonzaga family.

In the noble households, the recipe was enriched with more expensive ingredients using sugar, spices and almonds, without moving too far away from the original characteristics of the dessert.

According to tradition, this hard, yet crumbly, dessert should be broken into pieces and eaten with one’s hands.

The Recipe
Preparation – 10 minutes

Cooking – 20 – 25 minutes depending on your oven

Ingredients

  • 1 ½ lb all-purpose flour
  • 1 ¼ lb butter
  • 1 lb granulated sugar
  • 4 oz egg yolks
  • ½ oz baking powder
  • lemon zest, grated
  • 1 ¾ oz almonds
  • ⅞ lb cornmeal

Method

  • Blend all ingredients together on a table or work-surface.
  • Mix all the ingredients together to obtain a pastry dough.
  • Crumble the dough into a greased pie pan.  Do not press the dough together, let it remain crumbled.  The knack lies in preparing all the ingredients by crumbling them. Do not let the mass become homogeneous.

Optional – Arrange almonds on top of the crumbled mix.

Bake in a preheated oven at 360°F for 20 -25 minutes depending on your oven.

This yummy dessert can be served at brunch, for dessert, at bookclub or at a work function. It is great with coffee or dessert wine. Versatile, light and full of flavor, it will not disappoint.

Americans abroad · Bologna Italy · Emilia Romagna · ex-pat life · Italian food · Italy · Parma Italy · parmigiano-reggiano · Prosciutto di Parma

Prosciutto With Black Truffles and Truffle Mustard Dressing

This appetizer is so simple and so full of flavor you may end up serving it at every party you have from here on out!

The Recipe

Ingredients
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
3 tbsp apple cider vinegar
1 tsp truffle mustard or dijon mustard
6 thin slices fresh black truffle, finely chopped
Salt and pepper
8 small slices ciabatta
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil (for brushing)
4 slices prosciutto
Small salad leaves, your choice
8 thin slices of fresh black truffle

Method
Make dressing first by mixing 4 tbsp olive oil, cider vinegar, mustard and finely chopped truffl e. Season with salt and mix well. Preheat oven to 160C. Brush ciabatta bread pieces with 1 tbsp of olive oil and toast lightly in oven for 8-10 minutes.

Meanwhile, cut each prosciutto slice in half to obtain eight pieces. Once toasted, remove ciabatta pieces and, while still hot, place a piece of prosciutto on each and nestle on serving plate with small salad leaves. Drizzle with truffle dressing and finish with a truffle slice on each crostini. Add a couple of turns of pepper over the lot and serve.

Thank you to http://www.goodfood.au for the recipe.

Americans abroad · European travel · ex-pat life · Italy · Parma Italy

Your Carriage Awaits You

Photo by http://www.trendhunter.com

So, my husband accepted the job in Italy. We were moving and we needed a house. I have heard that moving is one of the most stressful things one can do. Add to it the challenges of an international move, and stress doesn’t adequately describe the feeling.

The company set up a trip for us to go house hunting in Parma. We were put up in a very nice hotel right in the center of town. We walked the narrow, cobblestoned, beautiful streets and explored our new city. The buildings were architecturally beautiful. Many had interior courtyards, carved edifices and delicate detail. Parma was gorgeous and romantic and everything that I had hoped for. I was excited.

House hunting in a foreign land is challenging. There is the language barrier and cultural expectations that must be tempered. And there is the fact that most American houses are larger than what Europeans are used to living in. Space was an issue. I had reduced our belongings by 1/3, but we still had more stuff than the average Italian family. I meticulously filled out the forms telling the relocation expert what we were looking for. Our relocation expert, Ignazio, arrived in a fancy big car to drive us around and look at houses. My excitement grew. We were driving around Parma and the buildings were just gorgeous. The countryside was stunning.
In my excitement, I asked questions, I commented on how lovely the town and the surrounding villages were. I tried to engage Ignazio. Yet, every time I made a comment, Ignazio ignored me, and when I asked a direct question, Ignazio looked at my husband and answered the question. I seemed to be invisible, although, he clearly heard me as he was answering what I had just asked?? There is a saying the USA, that a happy wife equals a happy life. Clearly, this was not an idiom in Italy, or at least not with this guy. The thing is, my husband is happy wherever. His housing needs are much simpler than mine. I wanted to find a place that would not only fit all of our stuff, but also, one that would make the kids comfortable and happy. When I walk into a space, I can envision where every piece of furniture will go and I can quickly assess if the space is big enough. Machismo Ignazio didn’t seem to realize that I was the one that he needed to please. The first few apartments and houses that he showed us were not even the right number of bedrooms. What he called a bedroom would not fit anything more than a twin bed. Where would wardrobes go?? My excitement was waning. My excitement was transitioning to worry and frustration with Ignazio. Surely, there had to be bigger spaces. It felt like there was a puzzle piece missing. His car was bigger than some of the places he showed us (ok, that may be hyperbole, but you get the idea).

After a few days of house hunting, I was near hysteria. We were running out of time and there did not seem to be anything in Parma that fit our family. Plus, Ignazio was still ignoring me and my feedback, thus, we were not making any progress. A friend in the USA hooked me up with a producer of a popular international house hunting show. They wanted us on the show. I saw angels and heard harps playing. Salvation was on the way. Uh . . . no. Spoiler alert, if you are a fan of these type of reality shows, you may not want to keep reading as I am about to burst your bubble. Pre-production called me and explained that they do not actually help you find an apartment. The show features families who have already found a place to live. They move the family completely out of their apartment, film it empty, film the family looking at a bunch of other apartments that no one really intends to rent, move them back into their apartment and film the result. “Why would anyone do that?” I asked. That process did not seem like it was going to help my stress levels. We declined the show appearance. One more trip in the big fancy car did not help either. I was no longer enjoying my first visit to Parma and I was on the verge of causing a scene at the relocation offices.

One evening, after yet another stressful and unsuccessful day of house hunting, we decided to go out for a walk and find a restaurant that the hotel had recommended. Armed with a map and American confidence, we set out. While the narrow, cobblestone streets are charming, they are also quite confusing. We got lost and the streets were empty. This was surprising for a Saturday evening. We would later figure out that we were far too early, but I digress. We went into a few shops and asked if they spoke English. No. We gave them the name of the restaurant and the map and pointed. Nope, they couldn’t help us.

So there we were. Standing in the street, tired, frustrated, running out of time to find a place to live, lost and hungry. Anyone familiar with the old Jack Lemon movie The Out of Towners? We were that couple.

Photo by The Out of Towners at IMDB.com

As we stood there staring at the map, tears of emotional exhaustion in my eyes, a garbage truck the size of a golf cart pulled up. A man got out and approached us. He spoke no English. He looked at our map. We showed him the name of the restaurant. He pointed in a few different directions. We were still confused. He waved his hand. We stood there with blank stares. He waved his hand again and added a head nod toward the garbage truck. “I think he wants us to go with him.” I said. “Should we? We don’t know this guy. He could drive us somewhere and murder us after stealing our wallets and jewelry. We have 2 children at home. We cannot get murdered in Italy!” We were armed with American confidence AND American fear culture, but again, I digress.

I still do not fully understand why, perhaps our sheer physical and emotional exhaustion took over, but, we decided to get in the garbage truck. The gentleman drove us around for a few minutes, picking up garbage bags that had been left on the streets. Then he delivered us to the front door of the restaurant. We thanked him effusively. He smiled and said “Niente. Buon appetito.”

Then something wonderful happened. The stress dissipated and my husband and I started laughing. In the USA, a garbage truck would NEVER offer to drive you anywhere – liability and union rules. Nor would we ever agree to get in a garbage truck with a perfect stranger. Too scary. But here in our new country, the garbage truck was a sign. Here, in our new country, we were going to have to learn to adapt. We were going to have to accept that the best apartment may not be the size of the house we left behind.  We were going to have to embrace the changes, the stress, the new rules, and, the adventure of it all. We were going to have to learn to recognize that sometimes the most beautiful carriage is not a big fancy car, but a golf cart sized garbage truck.

Photo by Piaggio_Ape50_clean_machine