I live in what one acquaintance referred to as a “ridiculously cute town.” Another friend said it looked like a town from a Disney movie.
It is clean, safe, the schools are excellent, and there are many parks and greenbelts. We have an old fashioned downtown complete with parades featuring kids, dogs and a group of old men who don oversized pants and call themselves the Balloon Brigade.
The weather is damn near perfect and we can get to the beach, the mountains, wine country, rivers, and lakes within a few hours. We are surrounded by nature’s majestic beauty but we are also a mere 40 minutes by public transportation from San Francisco. They even play pleasant Muzak at the gas station. So given all the wonderment that my town offers, I can’t help but wonder why I feel that I am slowly losing my mind living in one of the most pleasant places on Earth?
Loads of people assure me on a regular basis that “this is the best place to live.” They tell me that they do not wish to ever live anywhere else and hope to live here until they die.
I sigh, bite the inside of my cheek, and quiet the voice in my head that wonders why I don’t feel the same way.
I realized that I was losing my mind because suburban bliss was depleting my gypsy sense of adventure. I agree that our town offers many wonderful benefits, but I don’t share the majority view that this is to be my final town, my end of days. My gypsy spirit is waning under the reality of working full time, raising 2 kids and being a wife. While my life is very enjoyable, I am missing the energy that exploration has always provided me. I need to fuel my curiosity.
Living in a perfect place also makes me feel a bit guilty. I feel guilty that I am restless when I have so much. Stronger than the guilt, though, is the belief that I want more than the trappings of perfection for my children’s lives. I want my children to know that the world is made up of countless amazing places, cultures, people, art, food. I want them to see and experience the underbelly of life – the poverty, trash and homelessness that one sees in a city – because if they never see these things, they will not know that these things are problems that our world faces. If they don’t see these things, they will not know humanity and how to face a problem head on. If they don’t see these things, they may not learn compassion. If they don’t see that their suburban world is an anomaly and that most people do not live as they do, then they may not appreciate their own good fortune. I want my children to learn that you don’t have to be afraid of someone or some culture or some religion that is different than theirs. I want them to be citizens of the world.
I have been pacing my island of suburban perfection for months. I think it is time for a swim.
June. Summer has arrived and all across America it is time for prom, senior ball, senior ditch day and graduation. High school graduation is a milestone in a young person’s life. 30 some odd years later and I still remember mine.
In the USA students assemble in long dark robes with mortarboard hats on their heads. They are dressed in nice clothes under their robes. Select academic high achievers give speeches about the future. Often a special guest speaker such as a community leader will regale the students with tales of what lies ahead.
American students somberly walk single file on to the stage to be handed their diplomas. Occasionally, a few of the more adventurous students will do something silly during the procession, but in general, the graduation ceremony is a serious affair. While some parents laugh at the students who dare to be silly, most “tsk tsk” because the time for exuberance is after the ceremony. After the ceremony, students move their tassel from the right to the left and then, and only then, they throw their mortarboard hats in the air with “whooo hooos” “whoop whoops” and “yee haws!”
Studenten-The Swedish Graduation Ceremony
Given that this is all I know about graduations, imagine my surprise when I attended a Studenten – the Swedish high school graduation ceremony. Like the USA, Swedish students are dressed up for this important event. Girls wear white dresses and the boys dress in suits. This is where the similarities with America end. In Sweden, high school graduation is a party from beginning to end!
Studentmössa
In addition to their finery, every Swedish graduate wears a white hat called a studentmössa. Typically, the studentmössa is a white cap with a black or dark blue band, and a black peak. It looks like a sailor’s cap to me. I asked many a Swede why the sailor cap. No one was quite sure. The variations on the history of the studentmössa are many. Most agree, however, that in Sweden, the studentmössa was first worn in the mid 1800’s at Uppsala University at a student meeting.
Inside the cap is a lining which varies according to school colors or it may resemble the Swedish flag. Students put their names on the front of the hat. In between the student’s first and last name, there is a gem. There is also a colored band between the white and black part of the hat. The color of the band and gem tells onlookers what program the student is graduating from. Gymnasium or high school in Sweden is a bit different than the USA in that students choose a course of study in high school to either prepare them for a job upon graduation or to prepare them for what they plan to study at university.
Utspringet
The morning of graduation, most friend gather for champagne. Yes, they start drinking first thing in the morning on graduation day.
Next, each graduate receives a leaving certificate – like a diploma in the USA. What follows, however, is a joyous running out of school – “utspringet” – with your leaving certificate in hand through a crowd of parents holding placards with the graduates’ baby photos. Some of the parents go for a darling baby photo. Others use an embarrassing photo, but every graduate has one. Each placard has the name of the graduate and with the year and date of the graduation. Most of the placards are decorated with a blue and yellow background representing the national colors of Sweden. Rumor has it that the King and Queen of Sweden participated in utspring for the prince and princesses. That is how important utspringet is.
Utspringet. Photo credit: Tranås Tidning
The graduates run through the crowd and onto a stage where dance music is pumping. The graduates then dance, sing, blow horns, shake noise makers, jump, set off flares and generally have fun. From the evidence on the grounds around the school it seems that a good number of the graduates have fueled their dancing booties with Red Bull and alcohol.
After each group has gone through the run/dance/party on stage portion, they go into the crowd searching for their baby photos and hence, their families. Well wisher don them with necklaces of blue and gold (again, the national colors of Sweden) from which are hanging flowers, teddy bears, champagne bottles and other things that may represent the student’s personality and interests.
Flaket
From there the graduates move to rented flat bed trucks or fancy cars and continue the dance party. The trucks are decorated and are essentially a mobile dance club which drives through town honking their horns and playing music with graduates hanging off the trucks, singing and dancing. You can literally hear them from miles away. And you hear it all day, every day, for about a couple of weeks as different school have different graduation dates. This mobile party seems completely dangerous to me, but what do I know? It happens all over Sweden every year.
After the mobile disco ends you may see graduates running through the more populated parts of town in groups singing, dancing, yelling, blowing horns and whistles and chanting through megaphones. Some members of the group carry boomboxes and they lead the group like the Pied Piper keeping the party going. I was having lunch in a main square the other day and my friend and I could not hear each other over all the noise. Also common are pranks around town – silly things like jumping in public fountains to cool off (and sober up??).
Photo credit: Unknown.
After the truck ride and run through town, the graduates return home to friends and family waiting to celebrate the student with more festivities well into the night.
During the day I ran into my son who was graduating the following year. I said,”Wow, this is so different than America.” Ever after a good time, he replied with a gleam in his eyes and a smile, “I know!” For a long time I have felt guilty that he has missed out on so many of the American high school traditions. I think he is ok with embracing this new tradition though. I’ll take it – let’s hear it for small victories.
I’m not talking about the 1981 Bill Murray comedyor prison garb. I am talking about the recent spate of stripes in fashion. They have taken over Sweden. So much so that I felt compelled to blog about it.
I noticed immediatelyupon moving to Sweden that Swedish folks like stripes, but back then, it was a cute little thing that I noticed. Today, stripes have become the official Swedish summer uniform. There are babies in stripes, mothers and daughters in matching stripes, old people, young people, purses, shoes, shorts, shirts, hoodies.
So. Many. Stripes.
I noticed them in Poland, Germany and the Czech Republic to a small degree (now that my stripe antenna is up), but no where is it more prevalent that Sweden. You cannot walk 2 feet without seeing stripes.
So it left me wondering . . . is this just the latest fashion sweeping the world or is this a Swedish thing??
I asked some Swedish friends and a few shop keepers about it. None of them seemed to know why it is such a popular summer fashion theme here. One women suggested it is because Sweden is a country that has embraced water – the sea, lakes, and rivers. As such, stripes represent the nautical theme of the country. This was just her opinion though. She had no empirical evidence to offer me. I did a little research and found nothing related to Sweden, striped clothes and water.
Now, I know that striped clothing is everywhere. It is not unique to Sweden, but what is different here is the sheer number of people who seemingly overnight start wearing stripes.
How Many Stripes Are There?
Just to give you an idea of how many stripes there are in Sweden, the following pictures were taken while walking around Stockholm in a 30 minute period. 30 minutes!! And I have about 60 more photos that I didn’t include. I apologize for the quality – I was on the move.
In Sweden you will see royal blue and white combos:
The black and white :
The grey and white combination:
And red and white, red and other and just other:
The most popular choice, however, is the navy and white combination:
A little more digging and I discovered that the classic navy blue and white striped motif actually originated on the coast of Brittany in France. Many a French seaman was given a striped shirt bearing 21 horizontal stripes (one strip for each of Napoleon’s victories) as a uniform, known as a matelotor marinière. It is reported that the stripes were functional and allowed sailors to see shipmates that had fallen overboard. How this fashion statement moved from Brittany around the world is a topic of much debate, but there is no doubt that stripes have earned a top place in the fashion world and are considered a staple of a classic wardrobe.
But back to my premise that stripes go beyond a fashion statement here in Sweden and have morphed into a uniform. I ask you my friends – is this a Swedish thing? Have you noticed a prevalence of stripes in your neck of the woods?? Or is there another common clothing item that you have noticed where you live? Tell me in the comments what you have noticed.
When we visited Croatia we opted to forego the more well known spots like Dubrovnik and Hvar in exchange for visiting Croatia’s many national parks. The biggest concentration of national parks lie in the northern part of the country so we made Dalmatia, namely Zadar, our home base as Zadar was within a few hours drive from each of the parks we wanted to visit. After Plitvice, Krka National Park was next on our Croatian bucket list.
Krka National Park
I will say that in general, when cruising about Croatia and neighboring Bosnia Herzegovina, waterfalls are everywhere. You see them along the side of the road, but a few are standouts and Krka National Park offers 7 waterfalls (buk or slap) in one park.
The Park
Krka is the second most visited national park in Croatia afterPlitvice with over 1 million visitors each year. Krka has become so popular in recent years that it has begun to limit the number of visitors each day to 10,000. My advice, get there early or book onlineto reserve space. And bring your swim suit, because unlike Plitvice, at Krka, you are allowed to enjoy the cool, refreshing waters. At least for now.
Even prior to being designated a national park in 1985, the area’s splendor was enjoyed for centuries. The highlight of the park is its river and 7 major waterfalls. The Krka River, the source of the all the falls, is over 74 kilometers/46 miles long.
The protected flora and fauna is lush. The park is very clean and you will see fish, various birds, butterflies and dragonflies flitting about.
Within the park, Krka is accessible by a network of planked walkways, hiking trails, cycling trails, roads and boats. One can also add a 5 km/3.1 mile hiking and cycling path from Skradinski Most (Skradin Bridge) to Skradinski buk. Visitors who wish to hike or ride along the trail can purchase their tickets at the reception at Skradinski Most or online.
The park is unique in that in addition to its stunning topography, it also houses 2 monasteries and Roman ruins. Both monasteries, Visovac and the Eastern Orthodox Krka Monastery, date back to the Middle Ages. Burnam, the Roman ruins, date back to 33 BC.
Getting There
From the nearest town along the highway, Šibenik, you will see signs for the park and a specific exit heading to Skradinski Buk.
The road will lead you straight into Lozovac and a large parking area. You will see a ton of tour busses, people, and parking attendants.
After you park, you will find a building where tickets are sold. You cannot miss it. The town is tiny. You will also see a very long line. Leave some of your people in the line and send someone else to get the tickets. The line is for either the bus or the boat (at Skradin) to take you to the falls. As this is one of the most visited sites in Croatia, in high season, the lines can be long so best to have someone saving your spot, while someone else queues for the entrance tickets.
Your entrance ticket includes the bus ride. It does not include the boat ride. As we arrived late, we opted for the bus but I really wanted to take the boat up the river. If you want to take the boats then stop in the town of Skradin to purchase your tickets and catch your boat.
Once the bus or boat lets you off, you have a short walk to the planked walkway around the park on the Skadinski Buk trail. The trail is a 1900 meter/1.1mile long loop leading you around the most amazing spots, rapids, waterfalls and gorgeous flora and fauna. Bring water. The trail is not suitable fo those with limited mobility. The trail is not that difficult in terms of intensity, it is just crowded, hot, and hilly. And there is water on each side of you and no barriers.
INSIDER TIP: If you really just want to swim and see the falls, you can skip the trail and the crowds and walk in the opposite direction of the trail behind a building there are steps which go directly to the falls and lagoon.
Sites In The Park
When people talk about Krka, they are usually referring to the famous Skradinski buk also known as Krka’s Blue Lagoon. Skradinski buk and its adjoining lagoon are the falls that you see on all the postcards and in Instagram stories.
Most people do not explore the other parts of the park. I do recommend that if you have the time, you explore the entire park. To see it all properly plan for a minimum of 2 days.
SKRADINSKI BUK
On the way to the famous falls and lagoon, there is plenty to delight your senses.
The crowds move slowly, but that is ok, it means more time to enjoy your surroundings. After about 30 – 40 minutes you will reach Skradinski buk. Skradinski buk is insanely pretty. Again, it is the stuff of postcards and Instagram moments.
And note that Croatia is hot in the summer and the water is cool, refreshing, inviting. We were so hot that once we reached the falls we cold actually feel the cool air. Believe me, all you want to do is get in that water. But first, you have to carve out a spot among the crowds.
The area as you arrive at Skradinski buk is crowded and dusty. There are a lot of people roaming around and unfortunately on the approach side of the lagoon it is difficult to find a spot to leave your belongings where you can see them while swimming. This means that at least one member of your group must stay behind to watch your valuables. If you are traveling solo I suggest asking someone to watch your belongings. You should not leave valuables while you go for a swim with your group. It stinks that you cannot all go in at the same time, but you risk losing all of your belongings if you do.
INSIDER TIPS:You will see a bridge where everyone is taking photos. Cross the bridge and on the other side there is a lot more room to carve out your niche and spread out a blanket. The best part, it is in the shade and along the lagoon so you can see your people as they swim in the lagoon and you can take photos.
Also, bring water, water shoes, a blanket, a picnic. They sell all of it there, but you will pay tourist prices.
VISOVAC MONASTERY
After your swim, you may want to take a boat up river to Visovac Island and monastery. Visovac first welcomed its religious inhabitants in the late 1400’s. At that time Franciscan monks decided the island location was perfect for a hermitage where monks could study in solitude.
By 1576 building of the existing monastery was complete. Over the centuries, the monastery acquired a rich collection of paintings, relics and folk art. The monastery also has a small museum featuring historic church clothes, manuscripts, and rare books, including an illustrated copy of Aesop’s Fables printed in 1487.
Photo credit: hotelroomsearch.com
Visovac is still an active church and the priests who live there maintain a lovely flower garden worth having a look. They also perform mass if you are there on a Sunday. Mass is held at 11am every Sunday all year long.
Visovac Island is only reachable by boat. You can take the excursion boat from Skradin or special monastery mass boats from Brištane on Sundays.
ROŠKI SLAP
The waterfall Roški slap can be reached by road and by the excursion boats from Skradin. We drove into the park at Roški slap and then made our way down to the famous falls. The drive past Laškovika was stunning.
The natural beauty of Roški slap can be viewed year round.
Photo credit: np-krka.hr
BURNAM
If archeology is your thing, you have 2 sites to visit at Krka. The first, Burnum, was a Roman military camp. The ruins and archaeological site are located above the canyon and waterfalls.
These Roman ruins officially date back to the year 33 BC, but many archeologists believe the site may be even older. Several Roman legions were located there in succession. the spot was chosen for its vital access to the river which was used for transportation. Also, its gorgeous!
Today, one can visit the ancient amphitheater which still holds concerts on special occasions and a smaller museum which holds the artifacts found on site.
The closest entrance to Burnum is at the Puljane enterance and one must take a car to get there.
Photo credit: TotalCroatiaNews.com
Photo credit: np-krka.hr
OZIDANA PEĆINA CAVE
The second archeological site in Krka is the Oziđana Pećina cave. The cave is located near the very top of the canyon, on the left bank of the Krka River, just above the Roški slap. I could not get it to show up on Google Maps, but the park will have information on its exact location and whether it is open to the public or not. Because it is a working archeological site, it may be closed to the public at times.
The site displays artifacts and evidence of human settlement – things like ceramic dishes, stone artifacts, and human and animal bones dating back to the Neolitihic period from about 5000 BC to about 1500 BC. The Hvar and Danilo cultures are featured prominently.
I am claustrophobic, thus, this was not on my list to see even though I’d love to see the artifacts. The cave is 59 m long/7 m wide/2.5 m high tunnel. No thanks.
KRKA MONASTERY
The Krka Monastery is a Serbian Orthodox monastery dating back to the 12th century. The monastery has had several reincarnations over the centuries, but was originally built on top of a Roman site and has catacombs underneath that can be explored.
The monastery is dedicated to the Archangel Michael and is considered the best known example of the Serbian Orthodox Church in Croatia. The monastery is officially protected as a significant historical site.
Like Visovac, Krka Monastery is still in use, thus, visitors are limited to visiting the catacombs and the church in the company of a national park employee. There are also restrictions on what can be photographed. On site there is a tiny souvenir shop which sells religious artifacts and wine made by the priests.
To reach the Krka Monastery you can take a car or the boats from Skradin. When driving, follow the signs to Kistanje. From there you will see additional signs for the monastery. Parking is limited.
INSIDER TIP:After your visit, if you head down toward the falls, you can stop at a newly constructed viewpoint stop for cars offering a different view and perspective of the monastery. Great photo op!
Prices
The park entrance ticket includes access to the entire park, including an expert presentation at Burnum, another presentation at the mills at Skradinski buk, Roški slap and Oziđana Pećina Cave, access to all walking trails in the park, and bus transport from Lozovac to Skradinski buk and return.
Park entrance prices are subject to change so always check the website for the most recent prices.
Boat Prices – The Skradin excursion boats are not included in the price of your park entrance ticket. All visitors must acquire or purchase their tickets in a Krka National Park branch office in Skradin before boarding the boat. Visitors who purchased their tickets online can board the boat directly with their printed ticket or the bar-code on a smart phone.
As with the park entrance ticket, always check the website for the most recent boat prices. Also, your ticket price will vary according to the location within the park that you choose to visit.
Photo credit: Shutterstock
Rules
While swimming is allowed, and is a definite highlight, there are other rules inside Krka that are strictly enforced:
One must not stray from clearly marked bathing areas.
You are not allowed to dive into the swimming area.
You are prohibited from hunting, catching, frightening or disturbing the wild animals.
You must not pick or damage indigenous plants.
You must not break or damage the travertine.
You must not camp or light fires outside of clearly marked areas.
You must dispose of waste in clearly marked garbage bins.
You must not stray from the clearly marked trails.
All dog must be kept on a leash and have a muzzle on at all times. Dogs are not permitted on Visovac Island.
Drones or other unmanned aerial equipment are not allowed in Krka National Park.
As you can see, Krka offers so much more than the one waterfall and lagoon. Skradinski buk is awe inspiring and it seems to stop visitors in their tracks, but it is shame that most people never explore Krka beyond Skradinski buk as there is so much to see and do. If you do visit Krka National Park, I hope that this information may inspire you to look beyond the waterfall.
A few years ago some Italian friends told me about some natural thermal baths in Saturnia, Tuscany. They explained that there was a famous spa one could go to, but that there was also a natural occurring, free version very near the expensive spa, “IF you can find it!”
You see, the trick was that the locals will not tell outsiders how to find the natural thermal baths as they don’t want the natural baths overrun with tourists.
Since we lived In Italy I figured we qualified as locals of sorts. I was determined to find the free thermal baths. Unfortunately, at that time, the natural baths were not part of the standard GPS menu. The only information that we had was that they were near the famed Terme di Saturnia Spa and Golf Resort. Armed with an old fashioned map, American grit and a stubborn streak, we set out to explore.
It was not easy to find. There were no signs and there are a multitude of country roads to chose from. I am nothing, if not persistent though, and eventually we found it.
The kids and me in the front pool – Cascate del Mulino
After visiting Cascate del Mulino, I can see why the locals want to preserve this special place. Until now, I have never written about the baths out of respect for the local’s wish to keep it secret and special. Today, good or bad, what the locals feared has come to pass and one can input the location on your GPS. Back then it was such a local secret that when we asked our hotel for directions and they gave us some vague instructions about the general direction to go. Today they advertise the baths on their website.
Two Very Different Experiences
Luxury
If nature is not your thing, rest assured that one has choices when visiting the thermal baths. The resort,Terme di Saturnia Spa and Golf Resort, offers golf, spa treatments, yoga, massage, restaurants and accommodation in addition to thermal baths. It looked amazing and relaxing. The atmosphere is pure luxury. Room rates start at 300 Euros a night.
Photo Credit: Trip AdvisorPhoto Credit: Premium Europe
Rustic
In contrast, the natural (i.e. free) baths, Cascate del Mulino, just down the road, are the complete opposite.At the time that we visited there were no signs and we drove down many a dirt road searching for the mill. The area is unattended by any staff. There were no parking attendants, lifeguards or wait staff serving cocktails and sparkling water. The area was unpaved and dusty. Nearer the mill and falls, it was quite gravely and the actual pools and falls were quite slippery. Water shoes are a must.
The Legend
According to Italian lore the gods Saturn and Zeus were arguing about mortals’ penchant for fighting each other.
Zeus and his Lightening bolt – Photo credit: Newsela
Saturn – Photo Credit: Chronos Speaks
At some point during the argument, Zeus threw a lightening bolt (or a thunderbolt depending on who you ask) at Saturn (or at the mortals depending on who you ask).
The power of this lightening bolt went straight into the Earth and resulted in warm water gushing out, overflowing and enveloping the mortals. Essentially, Zeus gave the mortals a warm bath to calm them down. And it worked, the warm hot springs calmed the mortals, healed their ailments and generally made everyone happier. And it still works today.
The Healing Properties
Who wouldn’t want to heal themselves in waters divined by the gods? These thermal waters have been in use by local Italians since the Etruscan and Roman period. Natural pools have formed out of travertine as a result of 3,000 years of flowing water. The pools are perfectly formed and comfortable. The pools are so perfectly formed and smooth that my husband did not believe that they were naturally made.
The water is a consistent 37.5 °C/99.5 °F which may seem like it would be too hot, but trust me, it is not. It was oh.so.nice. We visited in the spring and I couldn’t help thinking that visiting on a crisp autumn or winter evening would be heaven.
The thermal water contains a myriad of minerals that offer healing powers. A few of the minerals are sulfur, sulphate, sulfide, carbon, bicarbonate, hydrogen, alkaline, thermal plankton, and 2 gasses – hydrogen sulphide and carbon dioxide. The gases give off a rather pungent smell similar to hard boiled eggs. We did not mind the smell, but I was told some people do not like it.
The minerals in the water have been used as a natural therapeutic spa since the the Etruscan and Roman periods. The waters were so revered that the Romans built thermal baths in many of the little villages surrounding the falls. Some of those baths still remain.
What can be cured by soaking in the thermal baths? All kinds of ailments including eczema, psoriasis, respiratory infections, and rheumatoid arthritis, to name a few. The water is also said to detox the body, and improve circulation, cell oxygenation and immune function. For me, the simple relaxation it provided was enough. And an added bonus, the minerals left my skin feeling soft and supple.
Monte Amiata. Photo credit: gps-tour.info
The source of the incredible healing water begins at Monte Amiata. Monte Amiata is a dormant volcano, which despite its dormant status, still pumps in excess of 800 litres/211 gallons of water a second from its depths into the falls. The water begins 200 meters/656 feet below the earth and is heated by the thermal activity of the dormant volcano. I am not a geologist. I admit that I don’t understand how a dormant volcano is still generating this much heat and hydraulics, but, who cares why. I am just glad it does.
Practicalities
Parking is limited. Many people park along the road and in fact that was how we ended up finding the place. There is one small car park at the end of the access road, however, it was jammed packed with cars so don’t count on finding a place.
Never leave valuables in your car.
Water shoes – you must take water shoes. Not only for your comfort on the rocky shore, but for safety in the slippery pools.
The usual bathing suits, towels, a sun umbrella, and sun screen, but you may also want to bring a change of clothes as your bathing suit will smell of sulphur after you get out. Changing occurs under the cover of your towel – again, this is a no frills natural spa and it is Italy where people don’t get hung up about changing on the beach, etc.
Food – bring a picnic, snacks, fresh water, etc. as there is only a tiny snack bar that sells things like ice cream, but not a full service restaurant or store in the area. Also, what a fantastic place for a picnic!
Accommodation
There are many hotels and B&B’s in the area. We stayed at the darling Relais Ciavatta in Maremma and I cannot recommend it more.
and amazing, friendly staff. One staff member in particular was very attentive and sweet. Luigi, the Jack Russell.
Luigi – the official greeter.
Benvenuti a tutti.
Luigi waiting patiently outside our door for my daughter to play ball with him.
Our day at Cascate del Mulino remains one of my most treasured memories of living in Italy. I like that we had to work to find it. It made it feel like a treasure at the end of a hunt. Like we had made it into the elite club of locals.
Cascate del Mulino is such a unique place that my heart is torn. I want to share it with others and yet, I really hope it does not end up developed and overrun with people. I am hoping that because the baths are a bit off the beaten path, the majority of tourists will not make the trek and the natural thermal baths may retain their natural allure.
While I totally appreciate the spa with its services and luxurious treatments, for me, soaking in ancient, naturally carved pools, with the sound of waterfalls that have been flowing for over 3,000 years, the incredible Tuscan countryside all around me, was an experience of a lifetime.
Italian summers are hot. And humid. Some days it feels as if you are melting. So one needs a refreshing drink to get by. And that is where the classic Italian summer cocktail – the Aperol Spritz comes in.
Aperol is an Italian apéritif (aperitvo in Italian) made of bitter orange, gentian, rhubarb, and cinchona among other ingredients. Ok, seriously does anyone know what gentian or cinchona are? I didn’t. So I looked them up. Gentian is a cute little purple flower. Technically it is an herb from the alps, that is commonly used as a digestive aid. Cinchona, also known as quina, is also a medicinal plant from South America. How it found its way into an Italian drink I have no idea.
Aperol was originally produced by the Barbieri company, based in Padua, but is now produced by the Campari company. While Aperol was originally created in 1919, it did not become successful until after World War II.
Photo credit: Campari.com
It is funny to me that the Campari company bought Aperol since the two drinks taste so similar to me. I guess they wanted to eliminate the competition. While they are similar in taste, Aperol has half the alcohol content of Campari.
Speaking of taste, Aperol tastes both bitter and citrusy at the same time. And orange is both the predominant color and flavor.
Photo credit: Niche Travel Design
Photo credit: bottle.aw-passions.com
The classic Aperol Spritz cocktail is a combination of Aperol and Prosecco. Truth be told, I took a long time to warm up to The Spritz. I do no like anything to sully my Prosecco and the bitterness of the Aperol was an acquired taste for me. Now that I have acquired the taste however, I really enjoy it on a hot summer day.
While popular in Italy, the Spritz was not an international drink until the last 6 years or so when hipsters started drinking them in New York, London and San Francisco.
If you fancy yourself a hipster or just like a refreshing drink on hot summer days, here are two recipes to try:
Classic Aperol Spritz
Fill wine glass with about three ice cubes Fill glass 2/3 with Prosecco Add 1/3 Aperol Add a slice of orange
Modern Aperol Spritz
Fill wine glsss with about three ice cubes Fill glass 2/3 with Prosecco Add 1/3 Aperol Add a slice of orange Add a shot of gin Add a splash of soda water
The Wadden Sea National Parks make up the largest system of intertidal sand and mud flats in the world. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to their protection of numerous plant and animal ecosystems, the parks stretch from The Netherlands, through Germany and up to Denmark. The Wadden Sea National Parks are home to countless birds, shellfish, fish, harbor and grey seals, and porpoise.
The area is a birdwatcher’s paradise as it is a popular destination for birds to breed, nest and moult. The parks are also an important winter home for migrating birds. It has been reported that at times, there are as many as 6.1 million birds in the Wadden Sea sanctuary and approximately 10-12 million migrating birds pass through every year. Without the Wadden Sea sanctuary, many European bird species’ survival would be in danger.
If you like birdwatching, a good time to visit is in the spring and autumn. There are so many starlings on the island of Rømø, that many people make a specific trek to the island to witness the phenomenon called The Black Sun. The Black Sun occurs when thousands of starlings murmurate in such a large number that they actually black out the sun.
Starlings murmurating. Photo credit: visitdenmark
The best time for witnessing the Black Sun is early morning and late evening. We were not there at either time but we were able to catch a group of starlings as they prepared for their evening jaunt.
Esbjerg – Things to Do
We started out in Esbjerg. Even though it is the fifth largest city in Denmark, Esbjerg, still feels a bit like a sleepy fishing village. Located north of the island of Rømø, Esbjerg was once Denmark’s biggest fishing harbor. Today it is a popular summer destination for both Danes and Germans. One of the most famous landmarks in Esbjerg is the Svend Wiig Hansen sculpture Mennesket ved Havetor or Men By The Sea.
The men are 9 meters tall and constructed of white concrete. Quite imposing, it is said that the men can be seen from 10 kilometers out at sea. Staring out to the sea, rigid with blank eyes they reminded me of modern incarnations of the heads on Easter Island. They did not evoke happy feelings in me, but instead a feeling of numbness and dread.
According to the artist, they are meant to illustrate the meeting between mankind and nature. The men are seated to represent a time before man rose up and “got dirt” on their hands. For Wigg Hansen, once men rose up and started creating, that was when where things started to go wrong. I find this to be an odd perspective coming from an artist.
Wiig Hansen decided to make the sculpture with 4 men because he felt 4 was more harmonious then an odd number. Again, that concept feels rigid and controlled to me. I guess I am not the right audience for this particular piece, although its sheer size was impressive.
In addition to public art, Esbjerg offers many active pursuits.
Swimming A popular destination in Esbjerg is the Svømmestadion Danmark. Svømmestadion is Denmark’s largest bathing and swimming facility. It is an indoor pool and waterpark – perfect for Scandinavia’s fickle weather.
If you want to spend your days outside, there are a number of options for cycling along the beautiful Jutland coast.
Cycling
The North Sea Cycle Route website can help you plan your perfect cycling adventure. The website offers cycle routes for everyone from beginners to experienced cyclists. There are a total of 1133 km/704 miles of cycle routes to peddle and enjoy the gentle Danish countryside. A popular routes for more experienced cyclers is Cycle Route number 1. Running from the German/Danish border, Cycle Route 1 is 560 km/348 miles.
If you are looking for a more relaxed family cycle trip, the Panorama routes are the way to go. There are 16 routes under the Panorama Route umbrella. The routes are circular and designed to accommodate families.
Photo credit: hwww.visitvejle.com
Each route is between 20 and 50 kilometers long. Most will take you along the Wadden Sea coastline. These routes are more suitable for beginner cyclers and families and every routes have restaurants along the way. There are numerous options for bike rentals in Esbjerg, but two that come recommended are PJ Ferie and Fri Bikeshop Fanø.
Boat Races
If you happen to be in Esbjerg in July, head to the beach to watch the The Tall Ship Races. These magnificent ships with their huge white sails look dramatic racing each other on the Wadden Sea. The race starts in Sunderland, England, sails to Esbjerg, Denmark, then on to Stavanger, Norway with the final leg ending in Harlingen, Netherlands.
Photo credit: Niche Travel Design
Sand Castles Of Sorts
If you are in the area from May to August, a friend told me not to miss the Søndervig Sand Sculpture Festival. Alas, we were too early, but these sand sculptures look unbelievable. More sand sculptures, than castles, these three dimensional sand masterpieces look worthy of another trip. This year’s theme is Wizardry and Magic. Here are photos from last year’s festival.
Hikingis a popular activity in the Esbjerg area. Both the Marbæk Nature area and the Kongeåen river area offer many trails to choose from.
Marbæk – Photo credit: visitesbjerg
Photo credit: visitvejen
If you want to mix it up after cycling, hiking and site seeing, take a canoe ride.
Canoeing A canoe trip on the Kongeåen, will put you smack dab in the middle of history as the river historically marked the border between Denmark and Germany until the reunification in 1920.
A recommended route for your canoe trip along the Kongeå river begins atSøengevej, just east of Vejen. This is recommended because there is any easy launch pad into the water and the site has ample picnic tables and parking.
Photo credit: Foldingbro Camping
If you launch from Søengevej you will actually begin your trip on the Andst Å river for about 30 minutes cruising past the Knag Mølle (Knag Mill) and then meeting up with the Kongeå river. If you want to take a break and have a picnic, you can stop at Hermansens Høj, just past the Knag Mølle. Hermansens Høj offers picnic tables and fire pits for cooking if you want to grill your lunch.
There are numerous places along the way to drop off a car if you plan on only going one way on your trip. Most pit stops offer shelter, fire pits for cooking, tables and toilets.
Fishing They say that the fish are so plentiful in and around Esbjerg, that no one returns from a day of fishing empty handed. There are over 15 different type of fish in the Esbjerg area and one can fish for both fresh water and sea fish. Some of the popular fishing spots are Sneum Stream, Varde Å, Ribe Vesterå, If you plan on fishing, you will need a license which can be purchased at www.fiskekort.dk.
Photo credit: Lars Lundsgaard
The many options for fishing include fish farms where you can rent equipment. If you prefer a fish farm, head to Tjæreborg Fiskpark or Nebel Lake Put & Take
Hjerting Beach Park
The most popular beach in Esbjerg is by far Hjerting Beach Park. At Hjerting one can swim, play beach volleyball, nap in a hammock, or stroll along the the 660 meter wooden promenade. If the tide is low, you can sit on the sea platform. If you miss the low tide, you can still enjoy the platform but you will have to swim out to it.
The island of Rømø is by far the most desired summer destination of the Wadden Sea area and it is easy to see why upon arrival. The place is tranquil and soft on your senses.
Photo credit: Niche Travel Design
Photo credit: Niche Travel Design
Photo credit: Niche Travel Design
Rømø, Denmark
Photo credit: Niche Travel Design
Rømø connects to the mainland by a 10 km causeway (and this is Denmark so of course there is a cycle lane). Traveling along the causeway one senses that you are leaving the hustle and bustle behind. The landscape is flat and consists of mudflats, marshland. The sea wraps itself around you on each side, the sound of birds calling you to their island.
The reason that so many Danes and Germans flock to Rømø each summer is obvious. Like Esbjerg, there are many things to do, however, where Esbjerg feels like a cool city summer escape, Rømø feels remote, removed and relaxed. Esbjerg has restaurants and clubs. Rømø has forests, marshlands and a really big beach.
Hjemsted Oldtidspark
Want to travel back in time with your family? Head to Hjemsted Oldtidspark an historic theme park covering life in the Iron Age. The park is located on the archeological site of an actual Stone Age village from 2000 years ago.
There, one can explore the underground museum with reconstructed graves, the Roman catapults, and a working iron workshop. You can learn crafts, hunting, fishing, agriculture practices and learn about cloth making, weaving and archery.
If you really want to understand life in the Iron Age, Hjemsted Oldtidsparkoffers longer stays and in one of the park’s houses onsite. These stays fill up quickly in high season so if you are interested, book well in advance. You can read more about long term stays here.
For a bit of history of the island, visit the beautiful Sea Captain’s House. This national museum was a whaler’s home in the 1700s. Here you will learn about the important whaling industry that dominated the area’s economy in the 18th century.
The house has a breathtaking view of the Wadden Sea and is furnished with typical 18th century furniture and paintings. There is also a gorgeous wall tiled with Dutch tiles from the period. The barn contains an entire whale skeleton and there is a fence built of whale bones up the road from the museum. Interesting, albeit a bit creepy too.
The grounds and the view are quite nice, and weather permitting, it would be a very nice place for a summer picnic. There is also a cafe on site that serves lunch.
Photo credit: rømø.dk
Drøhse’s House Drøhse’s House is one of Rømø’s oldest houses dating back to 1672. The baroque house is a well-preserved depiction of life in the 17th century. The house was a private residence for the upper class of Rømø throughout the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries.
In addition to the whaling industry, lace was a significant contributor to the island’s economic history. Drøhse’s House provides a peek inside a traditional trading house, and houses a number of exhibitions focusing on lace and lace making, textiles, furniture and glass. An added bonus, in the summer months, lacemakers can often be found working in the house.
A second bonus, be sure to visit the Lace Garden whose landscape was designed to resemble a 200-year-old Rømø lace pattern.
The museum is located on a pedestrian street at Storegade 14 in Tønder.
Rømø Labyrinth Park Looking for something to with tweens and teens, the Rømø Labyrinth Park is fun for teens and adults alike. Photo credit: visitdenmarkPhoto credit: visitdenmark
Puzzles, labyrinths and games, the park is designed to encourage teamwork and cooperation. And you can play their own game krolf – a mix between croquet and golf.
And One of My Favorite Activities: Exploring and Looking For Adorable Cottages
We visited the area off season. The many cafes, galleries and excursion were not open for the season, yet, we still enjoyed our time and I must say that I understand the pull of the area.
I want to return and rent an adorable thatched roofed cottage in the woods. I envision spending my days walking on the beach, going on an oyster safari, vacillating between all the active pursuits and reading a good book. In the evenings I’d watch the starlings murmurate and ponder the wonders of nature. It is said that the Waddden Sea casts a spell on its visitors. I, for one, am spellbound.
As many of you know or have read, Scandinavian winters can be long, dark and cold. Here in Sweden, springtime marks the important renewal of light and hope springs eternal. One thing I love is that it feels as if one day you have gone to sleep and the next you awake to a dramatic burst of color as the bulbs begin to flower all over Sweden. It is quite spectacular really.
Malmö, Sweden
To mark the momentous occasion when light returns to one’s life, the beginning of spring in Sweden starts on April 30th on Walpurgis Eve or Valborgsmässoafton in Swedish. The official holiday is May 1st, but the celebration begins the night before.
Walpurgis (also spelled Walburgis) is celebrated in many countries in Europe, and Sweden is no exception. Valborg (Swedish spelling) has been celebrated in every village and city throughout Sweden since the Middle Ages. Valborg ushers in spring and honors the life and sainthood of an 8th-century nun, St. Walpurga.
Like many Christian celebrations, Valborg has both pagan and Christian roots. In the days before Christianity took hold, farmers were willing to do just about anything to insure a good crop. After all, a failing crop was the difference between life and death. At the beginning of spring each year, farmers attempted to ward off evil, ensure fertility and cleanse the land of winter. Farmers prepared the soil and nurtured it by burning all the dead dry wood, brush and grass to invite new fertile soil to emerge.
Then along came Walpurga. As with most stories from ancient lore, St. Walpurga’s story is varied depending on who is telling it. From what I could gather, Walpurga was a nun who is said to have performed 2 miracles during her life, saving a child from starving with 3 sheaves of wheat and calming a rabid dog. A third miracle, which resulted in her canonization, is said to have occurred after her death.
The story goes that on the day that Walpurga was buried, the rocks making up her tomb started oozing a healing oil. The oil was seeping from the relics that were buried with her. The healing oil provided miraculous cures for ill people and became so significant that Walpurga’s body was reportedly removed from the tomb, dismembered and distributed around Europe to help spread the miracle. I could not find a clear explanation as to why the church would dismember her when the oil was coming from her relics, but I digress . . .
As a result of the healing oils coming from her tomb, Walpurga was canonized on May 1, 870, and became eternally tied to the pagan springtime rituals on April 30th. Today she is considered to be the saint that protects against storms, diseases and plagues, rabies, famine and failed harvests – she is essentially the patron saint of springtime.
Photo credit: Thorskegga
My experience of Valborg today, is that it feels akin to what we call a block party in the USA. I have been told that bigger cities celebrations are more like a carnival, and the student cities are like an all out, city wide, drunken party, but the celebrations that I have attended are sweet gathering of family, neighbors, and friends. People picnic, drink, sing songs. The kids play and then the main event, the bonfire is lit.
The bonfire may be small, medium or large in size. Some are burned on land, others out on the a barge on the water. No matter where it is or the size of the fire, the bonfire is the star of the event. Growing up in California where the grass is often quite dry and prone to brush and forest fires, I had never seen a bonfire up close. They are hot, and powerful, and oddly, a bit enchanting.
A bonfire burning out on the water.
What really struck me though as an American, and a lawyer by trade, was the active participation of children of all ages in the lighting and tending of the bonfire. Children assisted with the initial lighting and then continued to search for things to throw on the blaze. It was like a treasure hunt for flammable items. Not only were they participating, they were playing near and around the fire as it burned. Not a helicopter parent in sight. In the USA not only would each city erect barriers to keep everyone except the expert at bay (and let’s face it, to avoid any liability) but, the majority of parents would not allow their children to lend a hand or play near the fire.
I took comfort though knowing that this celebration and children’s participation in it, have been going on for longer then the USA has been a country. The Swedes seem to know what they are doing. And boy did the kids have fun.
After the fire had burned down, a group of older Swedes began singing odes to spring – songs inviting spring to please hurry and to bring sun, flowers, hiking. Songs about the joy of being outside after a long dark winter.
I could not understand many of the words of the folksongs, but it didn’t matter. The singing lent a nostalgic feel to the event, particularly because it seemed to be an older person’s gig. It was as if there is a societal code at work. The young people burn away the old and prepare for the newness of the world, while the elders remind everyone that people have been welcoming spring in this way for centuries. It was a perfect ending to a lovely evening.
When traveling it is always good to be alert, to be aware of your surroundings, know where your money, your phone and passport are at all times. I admit it, I am on alert by nature, but am on extra alert when traveling to a new place. And truth be told, I have been known to let my imagination get the best of me and assume the worst if I am in unfamiliar territory. You all remember the garbage truck in Parma, Italy, right? Where I was convinced that we would be murdered by an Italian garbage man.
On our trip to Croatia last year we decided to take a day trip to Mostar in Bosnia Herzegovina.We had read that while the main roads are safe, one must not venture off the main roads as there are still active landmines in the countryside left over from the Balkan war in the 90’s.
Photo credit: Niche Travel Design
On our way back, at the end of a long, very hot day, we were cruising along a local road on the way to the main highway. Out of the blue we hear honking. The car behind us is furiously honking and waving at us. A quick scan of the dashboard – nothing looks amiss. Tires and alignment feel ok, but still the couple behind us will not stop honking and waving. We pull over. They pull up next to us in a beat up, older model of an unknown car. The couple themselves appear to be human versions of the car, a bit rusty and rough around the edges.
Through what can only be described as a mixture of sign language and charades we understand that we are not to go any farther down the existing road. Our GPS, whom we have named Pippa in honor of her lovely posh English accent, disagrees. Pippa clearly wants us to continue on the road that we are on. My husband suggests that perhaps the local couple knows something that we don’t. Maybe the road ahead is closed? Maybe it is not safe? I point out that Pippa has never let us down. She always recalculates when there is a closed road – as we found out on the way to Mostar.
The local couple is insistent that we follow them. We continue to exchange unsure and concerned looks. The local couple wins. My husband flips a u-turn. We follow them down a small back road for about 10 minutes. We have no idea where we are going. Pippa is insisting that we, “Make a u-turn if possible. Make a u-turn if possible” I am getting progressively nervous. Who are these people? Where are they taking us? What is their motivation for having us follow them? Are we going to hit a landmine on this country road? Are we going to be ambushed and car jacked in the Balkan countryside? The Swedish plates have given us away as tourists/targets after all.
The local couple is about 200 meters in front of us. I ask Joe how he is feeling about following perfect strangers in a foreign land that still has active landmines to God knows where. He is a bit nervous about the whole encounter too. He pulls over to the side of the road.
The local couple’s car stops ahead of us in the middle of the road and just waits. There is no one else around. The only sound was the rustling of a soft breeze, the chirping of insects and the clicking of the GPS dial as Joe re-calibrates Pippa. Setting the GPS takes a long time under normal circumstances and feels even longer when one is convinced that your whole family is about to be taken out. Then, ominously, the local car begins to reverse toward us.
Photo credit: Pexel
They back up alongside us once again. They look confused. Why did we stop? They once again indicate that we should follow them. At this point we don’t know which way to go. Should we trust the locals or our nerves? Are they helping us or leading us to our demise? Since we have no idea where are are, we anxiously follow them again.
After about 5 more minutes of driving the local couple slows down and points us to the right. They point us down another road. Another road that we soon discover takes us directly to the main highway and relief.
Photo credit: Niche Travel Design
The locals turn their car around. They honk, smile, wave and head back the way we just came. They were not thieves, carjackers, or murderers. They were simply really lovely, nice people who went 30 minutes round trip out of their way to help some dumb tourists heading down the wrong road in the Balkan countryside.
To that local couple, thank you. I am grateful to you for restoring my belief that most people in this world are good and kind. I promise to pay it forward and help strangers in need along this journey of life. I will do this in your honor and I will think of you every time.
Niche Travel Design 