Wigilia (pronounced: vee gee lee a) or “The Vigil” is the traditional Polish Catholic Christmas Eve celebration feast held on December 24th. The ceremony represents, and honors, waiting for the arrival of Joseph, Mary, and Jesus.
PREPARING THE FEAST | 12 DISHES
The celebration commences only after the first star has been sighted by the youngest person in attendance. This can be a bit of a problem if the youngest person is an infant or, if the weather is not cooperating, but somehow, it all gets worked out each year. The sighting of the first star is a reference to the Star of Bethlehem.
The meal takes all day preparation. While the adults prepare the feast . . .
Preparing the feast.
Preparing the pierogi filling
The finished product.
the children occupy their time by decorating the Christmas tree.
The finished product.
WIGILIA TRADITIONS | SETTING THE TABLE
Hay for the table.
The children also place a bit of hay under the tablecloth to symbolize the hay present in the manger where Jesus was born.
After placing the hay under the tablecloth, the table is set. An empty plate is set on the table in case a traveler should need sustenance. The extra place setting symbolizes hospitality in honor of Joseph, Mary and Jesus who were in need of help from strangers.
An extra place setting in case a stranger needs hospitality.
THE OPŁATEK | THE BREAD OF LOVE
Once it is time for the fest to begin, family members begin the celebration with a prayer and breaking of the Christmas wafer called the opłatek.
The opłatek
The opłatek is similar to the Catholic communion wafer. The opłatek is known as the bread of love because it is often sent to the family members wherever they may be. We receive some every year from relatives in Poland. After the prayer, the oplatek is broken and pieces are given to everyone attending. Each person breaks off a piece of their oplatek, and shares it with everyone else, wishing luck and joy in the upcoming year.
Sharing the opłatek.
Sharing the opłatek.
This wish is usually finalized by a kiss on the cheek and saying and Wesołych świąt or Merry Christmas in Polish. I admit I mumble through that one each year. It is also customary to feed one’s livestock a bit of the opłatek too. Livestock are to be respected that day since they were present at the birth of Jesus. Domestic animals do not get to share in the celebration.
THE FEAST | 12 MEATLESS DISHES
After sharing the oplatek the feast begins. People are expected to fast from meat to symbolize the suffering of Jesus and thus, the meal is meatless. There are 12 dishes representing the 12 apostles of Jesus. Traditional dishes include: barszcz (beet soup); carp filets; pierogi (dumplings) filled with potatoes, cheese, mushrooms and kapusta (cabbage); dried fruit compote; fried fish fillets; herring in oil; mushrooms; meatless gołąbki, (cabbage rolls): cucumber salad; potatoes with milk and herbs; pickles; noodles with a sweet poppy seed dressing; and Polish vodka.
Barscz
Herring and onions
The feast
The feast
And vodka!
After supper families attend Pasterka or midnight mass. After mass, it is not uncommon for people to dine on a second meal which includes meat, particularly kielbasa (Polish sausage).
Kielbasa.
In addition to being a celebration of Joseph, Mary, and Jesus, It is also believed that Wigilia will foretell your future. Polish families believe that whatever happens on Wigilia day will affect one’s upcoming year. For example, if you quarrel with your sibling, you may well have a year filled with arguments and trouble. Thus, it is important to be on one’s best behavior on Wigilia.
Wesołych świąt dla wszystkich! Merry Christmas to all!
Visiting Holland, most people head to Amsterdam or The Hague. A little bit off the beaten path lies Marvelous Maastricht. The first adjective that comes to mind when I think of Maastricht is charming. Cobblestoned streets, Baroque, Romanesque and Renaissance architecture, large market squares, cafes and a riverfront all add to its appeal.
MAASTRICHT | STEEPED IN HISTORY
One thing that the locals are quite proud of is that the EU was officially formed and ratified as a result of the Maastricht Treaty of 1992. A pretty big development in European history.
“But Maastricht was not the end of history. It was a first step towards a Europe of growth, of employment, a social Europe.
That was the vision of Francois Mitterrand.”
Laurent Fabius
Maastricht also claims to be the oldest city in the Netherlands. The town of Nijmegen also makes that claim, but either way, Maastricht was the site of archeological relics dating between 8,000 to 25,000 years old!
Basilica of St. Servatius
Student bicycles. Maastricht
The name Maastricht is derived from Latin and means “crossing at the Meuse.” The crossing being an ancient Roman bridge built in the 1st century AD over the River Maas. Unfortunately, the ancient bridge is gone, but this delightful town still straddles the Maas river and boasts of being walking distance to Belgium, cycling distance to Germany and a quick drive to France. A true international crossroad.
And international it is. It is not uncommon to hear Dutch, German, French, and English on the streets and in the many cafes. Maastricht’s proximity to 3 other countries together with the international student population of Maastricht University has birthed a vibrant, multi-cultural population bustling with the palpable energy that comes with youth and diversity.
MAASTRICHT SIGHTS | THE MARKET SQUARE AND HET VRIJTHOF
At the heart of the city lie 2 distinct squares. The largest square, called Het Vrijthof, is a large space surrounded by restaurants and cafés with outdoor seating, a pavilion, and public art. It is one of the larger public squares I have seen in Europe. It is home to the Sint-Jan and Sint-Servaas churches, and the Generaalshuis. Het Vrijthof is also home to most of the public events happening in Maastricht – summer concerts, and the annual Christmas market.
Het Vrijthof. Maastricht.
Basilica of St. Servatius on Het Vrijthof. Maastricht
Public art on Het Vrijthof. Maastrict
Het Vrijthof. Maastrict
About a 6-7 minute walk from Het Vrijhof, is Maastricht’s Market Square or Markt, home to the city’s weekly food markets, flea market and the city hall – a large white building that evokes a wedding cake.
Town hall on the Market Square of Maastricht. Photo credit: iStock
Both squares lie in the heart of the city and either is a good place to begin your tour. If you are anything like my family, the first thing we typically do is taste the local cuisine. And Maastricht does not disappoint.
MAASTRICHT FOOD | FIRST ON THE AGENDA, GO EAT!
As mentioned previously, the rich and diverse culture in Maastricht means a rich and diverse selection of food. Known as the culinary capital of The Netherlands, one can find restaurants and food shops with Dutch, French, German, Belgian, and Portuguese influences. Surrounding Het Vrijthof, one finds a plethora of cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating perfect to sip a coffee, people watch, and have a fantastic bite to eat.
The many cafes surrounding the large public square Het Vrijthof. Maastricht.The many cafes surrounding the large public square Het Vrijthof. Maastricht.
MAASTRICHT FOOD |AMAZING DELICATESSENS
While Maastricht offers many amazing restaurants and varied cuisines, it is also home to some incredible delicatessens. If the weather is cooperating, a really pleasant way to enjoy your lunch is to visit one of the many specialty food stores and take a picnic in the Stadspark Maastricht.
Saveurs is a one-stop gourmet heaven. Saveurs offers specialty food, catering, take-out meal prep, and a food truck. Food is prepared daily and they are famous for their meatloaf. Yes, meatloaf made by combining minced Limousin beef and Duroc pork, then hand wrapping the meatoaf in bread paneer from the bakery Bisschopsmolen. It is like a Meatloaf Wellington.
Caravela Delicatessen is another incredible food store specializing in products from Portugal – Portuguese wines and Port, olive oil, piri piri, cheese and my favorite Portuguese treat, pastel de nata. Since I love everything about Portugal, we opted to get our picnic here. And it did not disappoint.
MAASTRICHT TO DO | A SHOPPER’S DELIGHT
Once you have finished your meal, you can easily walk it off. The town is an architectural delight and walking around is a treat for the eyes. And, there is ample shopping on both sides of the river with lots of interesting, independent boutiques. No matter where you wander, you will be a stone’s throw from shopping heaven. There were so many stores and boutiques on every street that we lost count.
MAASTRICT TO DO | VISIT THE MOST BEAUTIFUL BOOKSTORE
If you are shopping on the western side of the river, be sure to stop by theDominicanen bookstore. This glorious bookstore is housed in a repurposed,
700 year old church. Over the years the building was utilized for a variety of functions, finally settling on an identity as a bookstore, coffee bar, and event center for lectures, debates, and exhibitions.
Even if you are not looking for a book, it is worth a visit. The combination of books and cathedral features are stunning. CNN Travel named this bookstore one of the coolest bookstores in the world.
MAASTRICHT TO DO | REST YOUR BARKING DOGS ON A BOAT CRUISE
If your dogs are barking (an American idiom meaning your feet are tired) rest them while you cruise the Maas River on one of the many boat tours. One can cruise in groups, rent an individual boat, or go on pre-arranged cruises. Prices vary according to the theme and the length of the trip. You can tour the locks, have brunch, a pancake breakfast, a historical tour or an evening cocktail tour. There are options to suit just about every interest and some of the evening options have a different theme each month. Maastricht clearly embraces the river as part of its culture.
Unfortunately, we did not have time to actually take a boat cruise, thus, while I cannot make a recommendation, I can provide you with some basic information on the available tours. The 2 main tour companies are GetMyBoat and Stiphout Tours.
MAASTRICHT TOURS | OTHER WAYS TO EXPLORE
If boating is not your thing, not to worry, Maastricht offers many options for touring. One can rent bikes or Segways, take a train, or join a walking tour or architectural tour.
The stunning architecture of Maastricht.
The stunning architecture of Maastricht.
The stunning architecture of Maastricht.
MAASTRICHT TOURS | GO TO HELL
While there is nothing hellish about Maastricht, one can also literally go to Hell’s Gate. Hells Gate or Helpoort is one of the last standing remnants of the medieval city walls constructed in the 1200’s. The gate served as the southern entrance to the city and was so named due to the fact that prisoners were actually locked away in the tower of the gate. Thus, it was the Gate to Hell for the prisoners.
Inside one finds a museum detailing the history of Maastricht with insights into the city’s history as well as its prominence in the region.
MAASTRICHT TOURS | GO UNDERGROUND
One of the most interesting things about Maastricht to me, was the 80 km of tunnels and caves under the city.
This labyrinth of caves and tunnels have served many important functions vital to the city since their inception. These man-made tunnels were the result of the underground quarrying of stone. The St. Pietersberg caves and tunnels were formed as stones were harvested and used to literally build the city of Maastricht on its shoulders.
The caves and tunnels have also shouldered some heavy historical responsibilities. During WWII, the caves housed Jewish people hiding from the Nazis. Hidden deep inside the damp, dark tunnels, fighting to survive each day, the Jewish inhabitants somehow managed to create a water supply, a bakery and a temple inside the tunnels. Despite the horrors of war, the human spirit survived and made life in the cold dark tunnels as comfortable as they possibly could. While not an ideal living situation, the tunnels saved the lives of many.
The caves and tunnels also saved the most famous Dutch art from man’s folly. On the tour of the tunnels, one can see National Storage Location Number 9 also known as The Kluis. The Kluis, was built at the beginning of WWII to hide the most important Dutch art from destruction and theft. An estimated 800 works of art were housed in the Kluis for over 3 years. Some of the works that were saved include Rembrandt’s Night Watch, Potter’s The Young Bull, and Vermeer’s Little Street. Fascinating stuff.
MAASTRICHT COFFEE CULTURE | GRAB A CUPPA’ JOE
After all the eating, shopping and touring, it is time for one last coffee. Given this is a university town, there are a plethora of coffee shops to chose from.
Coffee and cafes abound in Maastricht.
The locals will all tell you that a visit to Maastricht must include a coffee at Blache Dael. The oldest coffee house in the province of Limburg, Blache Dael opened in 1878. Their claim to fame is that every day they have a different freshly roasted coffee.
I would say that the second most talked about coffee shop is Alley Cat & Bikes. Alley Cat Bikes & Coffee is a coffee bar, a social hub, a creative workspace, and a bicycle repair shop. An important stop for the large student community. They also serve fresh food made from local suppliers.
If you get a chance to visit Maastricht, I hope that you enjoy it as much as we did. Maastricht truly is a food, history, shopping, and architectural paradise.
Looking for a place to unwind, recharge, and commune with nature, but still want the comforts of a bed, a down comforter, and a gourmet meal? Look no further than The Glass Cabins at Baldersnäs Herrgård.
Sunlight peeking through. The Glass Cabins at Baldersnäs Herrgård
THE SECRET TO HAPPINESS
Sweden is often rated as one of the happiest countries in the world. Living a balanced life between work and play is a key factor in that rating. And part of living a balanced life in Sweden has to do with making nature a part of your life. Swedish people love, and appreciate nature. Swedes like to be outside biking, walking, skating, hiking or camping. This connectedness to nature is a significant part of Swedish culture.
This connection to nature is so significant to the Swedish way of life, that in 2017, Swedish researchers decided to try to measure the precise effects of nature on a person’s happiness and health.
Lake view from the Glass Cabin at Baldersnäs Manor.
THE 72 HOUR CABINS
The Glass Cabins (also known as the 72 Hour Cabins), were the brainchild of two researchers in the field of stress management. Walter Osika and Cecilia Stenfors developed a program were they brought together 5 people from different backgrounds, different countries and different stressful jobs. The idea was to place the individuals from all walks of life into nature for 72 hours.
For 3 days, or 72 hours, the subjects lived in cabins made of glass. The subjects unplugged their technology and engaged in simple outdoor activities, such as skipping stones on the lake, hiking, swimming, fishing and cooking over a fire. The purpose of the glass cabins was twofold – the researchers wanted people to be comfortable enough to relax, but they also wanted to make sure that nature was always present. The comfortable beds inside cabins with glass walls allowed participants to sleep under the stars and wake to the natural rhythms of the Earth.
The Glass Cabin inviting nature inside
Nature from all angles
THE RESULTS
Good news! All 5 participants in the 72 hour study demonstrated a decrease in anxiety, blood pressure and heart rates. They relaxed. They de-stressed. Participants reported a better overall sense of well being and peacefulness. Those results alone would be sufficient to render the experiment a success, but in addition, participants also reported an increased feeling of creativity and improved problem-solving.
Incredible right? What fantastic news. It only takes 3 days for each us to become healthier and happier. With a simple prescription of some nature in your life, you too, can reduce stress and find more joy.
I had to see the cabins for myself.
The Glass Cabin
DALSLAND, SWEDEN
I headed up to Dalsland in western Sweden to the Glass Cabins located on the Baldersnäs Herrgård country estate in Dals Långed.
I was met by the lovely and charming, Susanne Björk Jensen who showed me around the estate and then gave me a tour of these amazing, innovative glass cabins.
Baldersnäs Herrgård is a beautiful country estate from the turn of the century that has been transformed into a luxury hotel. It sits on a peninsula surrounded by nature’s bounty.
Lake Låxsjön
The estate sits adjacent to a nature preserve where The Glass Cabins are located.
The first cabin sits on a small bluff overlooking Lake Låxsjön. The first cabin is a quick jaunt from the country estate offering an easy journey up for a gourmet meal, a massage or a delicious cup of morning coffee in the English garden.
The cabin has many lovely large trees and offers a sweeping view of the lake. My tour guide, Susanne spoke of waking up there with a mist on the lake, the sounds of birds greeting the dawn, a hint of sunlight peeking up from behind the forest trees. It sounded like a little slice of heaven.
Lake view from the Glass Cabin
The property and nature preserve are both spectacular and the cabins ease gently into the landscape. The cabins are inviting with simple decor and muted soft colors. The simplicity evokes a Zen like feeling. Very inviting. Very relaxing. I wanted to jump right in the bed and take a nap. Curtains are provided along the glass walls to allow for privacy. Even with the curtains pulled, however, the glass ceiling still allows nature to envelope you.
The Glass Cabin. Interior.The Glass Cabin. Interior
The second cabin is approximately 200 meters away and sits atop a small hill surrounded by trees. The second cabin was more secluded than the first cabin, yet it too sported a lovely view of Lake Låxsjön. The second glass cabin also has the added bonus of being steps away from the sauna on the lake.
Lakeside sauna. Baldersnäs Manor.The Glass Cabins at Baldersnäs Herrgård
The original glass cabins used in the experiment are located on a private island of Henriksholm, in south-east Dalsland. These glass cabins are remote, accessible by boat and should be booked well in advance.
A second set of glass cabins can be found in the center of Dalsland region near Lake Iväg. Those cabins must be booked through Dalsland Activities.
The reason I like the glass cabins at Baldersnäs Manor is that in addition to unplugging and unwinding by inviting nature into your room, one can also relax by golfing, taking a yoga class, enjoying a massage and/or partaking in a gourmet food and wine experience featuring local foods.
The Glass Cabins are just a 2 hour drive from Gothenburg.
The Glass cabins at Baldersnäs Manor can be booked by contacting;
One of my favorite escapes when the sun comes out is to ride my bike down to the Limhamn harbor. This California girl needs her sun, sea and sand. Fortunately, there is a wonderful restaurant where I can go and feel slightly like I am at home, Restaurang Kajutan.
Restaurang Kajutan offers views of the Öresund Bridge, boats, and even has its own sandy beach lounge complete with beach chairs.
Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Beach. Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Öresund Bridge from Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
The restaurant has 2 bars – one to serve the outside beach area and another inside. They have a full bar and an impressive wine list.
Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Beach Bar. Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Bar. Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Bar. Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Beach Bar. Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
The food is really good too. They have a menu that offers both seafood and meat. The lunch menu is a great value. The Caeser Salad with chicken is a really good size, and comes with a lot of chicken and a lot of bacon. Paired with a nice white wine and I am one happy camper.
Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
So if you are looking for a place to enjoy some sun, sea air and unwind, head to Kajutan, grab a beach chair, order some lunch and a cocktail.
Beach. Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Kajutan can be found at Bryggövägen in Limhamn, Sweden.
According to the Swedish Board of Agriculture and Statistics, Swedes eat a lot of cinnamon buns or kanelbullar as they are known here.
Apparently, the average Swedish person eats the equivalent of 316 cinnamon buns per year. That is almost one cinnamon bun per person, per day. Kanelbullar are by far the most popular pastry treat in Swedish culture, so much so, that they have their own national day of celebration every October 4th.
When I moved to Sweden, I was given this recipe to make kanelbullar at home. The recipe has been passed around to the newbies at my international club. Allegedly, it is an authentic hundred year old recipe.
Kanelbullar | Niche Travel Design
Kanelbullar | Niche Travel Design
Fika with kanelbulle | Niche Travel Design
Kanelbullar
Makes: 12 buns Preparation: 45 minutes (+ 2 hours rising time) Preheat the oven to 180°C (360°F, gas 4, fan 160°C)
Ingredients:
Dough 250 ml (1 cup) whole milk (3-4%) 100 g (3½ oz) unsalted butter (1 tbsp less than ½ cup) 1 egg 500 g (4 cups) strong white flour (bread flour) ½ tsp ground cardamom* 50 g (1/4 cup) caster (superfine) sugar 1 tsp salt 7 g (1/4 oz) fast action dried yeast (1 packet “instant” yeast)
*Cardamom is optional, but very popular in Sweden so if you want an authentic Swedish kanelbulle, the cardamom is important. Cardamom can be found at almost every grocery store in Sweden. If your supermarket does not carry it, search out an Indian foods market as cardamom is a common ingredient in many Indian recipes. If all else fails, you can order to order it online.
Filling 150 g (3/4 cup) light brown sugar 3 tbsp ground cinnamon 60 g (1/4) unsalted butter, very soft
Topping 1 egg, lightly beaten 3 tbsp pearl sugar. Pearl sugar can also be found at many grocery stores in Swede. If you cannot find it in your neck of the woods. you can substitute regular or powdered sugar. Alternatively, try small flakes (slices) or almonds.
Directions:
1. Place the milk and butter into a saucepan and heat on medium until the butter is melted. Remove from the heat and allow the mixture to cool to a lukewarm. Once lukewarm, mix in the egg.
2. Place the flour, cardamom, sugar, salt and dried yeast into a large bowl and mix together.
3. Add the liquid mixture to the dry ingredients. Mix and form a dough ball. Place the sticky dough on a floured surface and knead for 5-10 minutes or until the dough is smooth and elastic.
4. Place the dough in a clean bowl and cover with a kitchen towel. Place the bowl somewhere warm and allow the dough to rise until it has doubled in size. Rising usually takes anywhere from an hour to an hour and a half.
5. After the dough has doubled in size, place it on a lightly floured surface. Roll the dough flat into a rectangle. It should measure approximately 25 cm x 35 cm (10” x 14”).
6. Mix the sugar, cinnamon and butter together to form a smooth paste for the filling. Spread the filling evenly across the dough.
7. Roll the dough starting along the longer edge. Cut into twelve rounds. Place on baking trays lined with parchment paper and cover with a kitchen towel. Allow the rolls to rise again until they have almost doubled in size. It should take about 45-60 minutes.
8. When ready to bake, brush the top of each bun with the beaten egg and sprinkle with pearl sugar. Bake for 20-25 minutes or until golden brown.
9. Invite friends and family.
10. Serve warm or cold with a hot tea or cup of coffee.
I went for coffee today with my daughter and discovered my new favorite cafe/store/space in Malmö, Sweden, AbSmåland.
Hard to describe, but oh so inviting, AbSmåland is a “lifestyle concept where the unexpected meets the traditional.” It is a gardening and plant store, a cafe, a furniture store, a home design store, a space for creating and a baby store. It takes up 1450 square meters. It is a big, luscious space. And it smells reeeaally good.
We started in the cafe. AbSmåland’s café is organic and fair trade. And, in my humble opinion, they have the best cardamom roll in Sweden. Unfortunately, as it was not gluten free, I could only have a nibble and appreciate it from afar.
The perfect cappuccino
My daughter and I both had pretty decent cappuccinos (after Italy it is hard to be impressed) but the nicest bit was free regular coffee refills. We were there long enough that the lunch crowd starting wandering in. The lunch smells began wafting out of the kitchen. Did I mention that it smells really good in there? The cafe serves soup, salad, and the famous Swedish smörgås (open faced sandwiches).
The Space
After coffee and buns, we wandered around the rest of the space. I read that the space wants to invite creativity and curiosity. As such, throughout the space, there have placed windows, plants and lots of color.
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They also offer bedding, clothing and baby items for the ever so modern and stylish Swedish babies.
AbSmåland | Stuffed Lion
AbSmåland | Swedish Bunny
The Workshop
As I was leaving I asked one of the employees what was upstairs. “Go explore and find out” was his response. Challenge accepted. I discovered that the upper floor houses a workshop that offers creative endeavors.
At the workshop one can create: your own textile to upholster the furniture that you purchased downstairs; your own seasonal bouquets with a professional florist as your teacher; macrame baskets; your own hanging garden. The workshop also facilitates sessions with local artists from time to time. AbSmåland’s website says that their ambition “is to offer an inspiring venue with a creative atmosphere where everyone feels welcome.” I would say that they have succeeded. I, for one, cannot wait to return.
You can find AbSmåland at: Södra Förstadsgatan 25/27 211 43 Malmö 072-248 89 20 hej@absmaland.com
This past February the “Beast From The East“ descended upon Amsterdam just as we arrived to visit. It was cold. Really cold. In fact, it was miserable walking around the city and bikes seemed like it would only make it worse as we would have to cut through the cold wind.
So what to do Amsterdam when it is colder than a Polar Bear’s toenails outside?
Head inside. Thankfully, my daughter loves art and plans on studying art history, so off we went to the Van Gough Museum. The next day there was a discussion of going to the Rijksmuseum. I opted out. No offense to anyone, but Dutch Masters aren’t my favorite period of art and I’ve seen it. I said I’d find something else to do. But my mind wandered to the modern building we had seen the day before. Hidden in the shadow of the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gough museum is the Stedeljik.
The Stedelijk is the Goldilocks of museums. It is not too small, not too big. It is just the right size.
The collection is primarily modern art, but it also houses quite a few paintings from other artistic genres. For a medium sized museum we all agreed that it is packed full of great art.
The Stedelijk Building
As I mentioned, the Stedelijk can be found tucked behind the Van Gogh Museum and the Rijksmuseums on Museumplein. The Stedelijk is a contemporary art museum and thus, it is fitting that the building itself, a modern glass and steel structure, is a stunning piece of architectural art on its own.
The Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam. Photo credit: http://www.lensvelt.nlThe Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam. Photo credit: ArchDaily by Jannes Linders
The Original Building
The original collection was made up of art and antiques that were donated to the city of Amsterdam by Sophia Augusta Lopez Suasso de Bruyn, a wealthy widow who wished to have a museum opened in her home and in her name upon her passing. Indeed, the Stedelijk was originally called The Suasso Museum and was housed in her home.
Eventually, Madame Suasso’s home was deemed too small and a new building was designed by A.W. Weissman, a local architect. The new museum building designed by Weissman has a neo renaissance façade with several ornate, figurative sculptures. When the new, modern, wing was added many of the flourishes were lost to modernization and renovations. The Stedelijk´s original and main building was constructed between 1891-1895 at Paulus Potterstraat, at the short walking distance from the Rijksmuseum.
The New Building – aka The Bathtub
Stedelijk Museum. Photo John Lewis Marshall
A more modern and more functional building was opened in 2012 after almost a decade of renovations. The modern addition, designed by Dutch architects Adriaan Willem Weissman and Benthem Crouwel Architect, is a pretty sharp contrast in style to the Weismann building. After the unveiling of the new addition, many locals thought that the modern aesthetic clashed with the old Stedelijk building, The Concertgebouw, the Van Gogh Museum and the Rijksmuseum. Essentially, they didn’t think the modern style went well with the other buildings in the neighborhood. Locals took to calling the new addition “the bathtub.” In my opinion, the new building fits its purpose of showcasing contemporary art and, an added bonus, it offers amazing views of the Museumplein. I sat and people watched through those big beautiful windows for 40 minutes as I sipped my coffee, warm and toasty away from the cold. It was lovely.
Overlooking Museumplein
The museum’s purpose has changed many times over the years – going from a private collections of art, collectibles, furniture, and antiques to medical instruments and finally resting on contemporary art and design.
Along with the masters of modern painting genres such as Impressionists, Fauvism, Cubism, Expressionism, the Stedelijk also has a unique collection of furniture, and, photography.
The Collection
The collection includes modern and contemporary art and design from the early 20th century up to the 21st century and features famed masters such as Vincent, van Gough, Wassily Kandinski, Marc Chagall, Henri Matisse, Jackson Pollack, Andy Warhol, Willem de Kooning, and Keith Haring.
Highlights From The Collection
The Stedelijk has everything from quirky artists previously unknown to me . . .
Martial Raysse and Elaine Sturtevang, installation view The collection, STEDELIJK BASE. Photo: Gert Jan van Rooij
Personnage Hilare (Portrait de Francis Ponge) by Jean Dubuffet. 1947.
Lady Chatterly’s Horse. Bill Copley. 1960.
to the masters of the modern movement . . .
Rosy Fingered Dawn at louise Point. Willem de Kooning. 1963.
Cathedra. Barnett Newman. 1951.
Untitled (Umber Blue). Mark Rothko. 1962.
North Atlantic Light. Willem de Kooning. 1977.
The Water Bull. Jackson Pollack. 1946.
to the masters:
La femme enceinte (Maternité). Marc Chagall. 1913.
La Montagne Sainte-Victoire. Paul Cézanne. 1888.
Odalisque. Henri Matisse. 1921.
Femme nue devant le Jardin. Pablo Picasso. 1956
Le Violoniste. Marc Chagall. 1912 -1913.
Kitchen Gardens on Monmartre. Vincent van Gough. 1887.
Two Surroundings. Wassily Kandinsky. 1934
Femme assise au chapeau en forme de poisson. Pablo Picasso. 1942.
Femme dans un paysage – Anna Boch 1890. Legend has it that Anna Boch was the only person to have purchased apainting from Vincent van Gough while he was alive. This has been dabted but it is the reason that her work hangs next to van Goughs work at The Stedelijk.
La Berceuse (Woman Rocking a Cradle. Vincent van Gough. 1889.
And, The Keith Haring Velum
American artist, Keith Haring, began his career in 1980, drawing graffiti in the New York subway. During a brief, but intense, career that spanned the 1980s, Haring’s work was featured in over 100 solo and group exhibitions. In 1986 alone, he was the subject of more than 40 newspaper and magazine articles.
In 1986, at the heigh of his career, Haring agreed to create a special piece for The Stedelijk. From The Stedelijk website: “The American artist painted the canopy, which filters daylight into the grand hallway, especially for his solo exhibition at the Stedelijk in 1986. For this show, Haring didn’t simply want to present artwork he’d already made – he insisted on making new work. Laying out the velum (which measures almost 40 x 66 feet, 12 x 20 meter) on the floor of one of the museum galleries, he painted it in just one day, using spray paint. Haring turned the event into an energy-fueled performance: while photographers and journalists looked on, he painted rapidly and rhythmically, moving over the canopy, hip-hop playing in the background. He filled the canopy with dancing, waving figures, crawling babies and squirming animals. Known as the ‘Keith Haring velum’, the painting was stretched below the monumental glass cupola above the historic staircase. The painting was an instant hit. Now, more than thirty years later and restored, the velum is back for everyone to enjoy.”
The photos do not do the velum justice. It was beautiful in person with the light slipping through and contrasting the parts untouched by sun.
Keith Haring. Stedelijk Museum AmsterdamKeith Haring. Stedelijk Museum AmsterdamKeith Haring. Stedelijk Museum AmsterdamThe Keith Haring velum. The Stedelijk Museum, Amsterdam.The Keith Haring velum. The Stedelijk Museum, Amsterdam.
Practicalities
Hours: Monday – Thursday and Saturday and Sunday: 10:00 – 18:00
Friday: 10:00 – 22:00
Address:
Stedelijk Museum
Museumplein 10
1071 DJ Amsterdam
The Netherlands
If you get a chance to visit the Stedelijk, I hope that you enjoy it as much as we did. Maybe because we had not planned on going, in fact none of us had even heard of it, it turned out to be one of those serendipitous moments where things did not go as planned, but we ended up with a lovely surprise.
Italians are a passionate bunch in general, and their passion for life can be triggered on a dime. Amazingly though, they also seem to make up with one another right away. I have seen them yelling and screaming at each other, faces reddened, spittle flying, arms waving and then shake hands and walk away five minutes later. Given this passionate culture, I was eager to attend a football match because one thing that Italians are very passionate about is football, the most popular game in the world. You know, what we Americans call soccer.
Football, The Most Popular Game In The World
We decided to support our local football team and we went to watch Parma play against Inter Milan. I was a tad nervous because my husband had warned me that when Parma scores the crowd goes a little crazy – their passions are unfurled with yelling, screaming, shoving, running up and down the stands. Joe was actually knocked over at the last game he went to. He was not hurt, but that knowledge made me anxious as neither my daughter, nor I, do well in crowds. I was also anxious because Inter Milan was ranked fifth and Parma was ranked sixth, so tensions were indeed high. Ultimately. my desire to experience Italy to its fullest won out over my fear. We donned our blue and yellow and headed out to the stadium.
Upon arriving, I noticed that there is no alcohol allowed at an Italian soccer game. Now, bear in mind that Italy is a place where one can find a full bar just about everywhere – the park, the movie theater, the shopping mall, the gym. But not at a football stadium. I have to say, that I support this practice. I think it is a wise idea to prohibit alcohol at sporting events where passion and loyalties are on overdrive. One of my dear friends in California is a sweet, gentle guy unless you encounter him at the UCLA/USC football game. Then, he is a rabid dog. Give him some beer at the UCLA/USC game and he is a rabid bear. It may be a good thing for America to follow the Italian example in this case.
Something else that I noticed was that even stone cold sober, Italian fans are INTENSE about, and loyal to, their football team. One of our Italian friends welcomed his second daughter into the world on the morning of the game that we attended, but he still made it to the match that afternoon!
Warning – Foul Language Ahead
The intense loyalty that they feel for their team is most often manifested by hurling insults at the other team. Through the entire game, Parma fans were chanting “Inter, Inter, vaffanculo, vaffanculo!” which literally translates as “Inter, Inter, up your a**,” but is used more as Americans use f^%k you. Imagine half of a stadium chanting “f^%k you!” Here were some of the antics I was hoping to experience.
Italians are a poetic people. They value the poetry of their art, food, fashion and language. Given this love of language, a simple vaffanculo would not suffice and the fans occasionally intermixed the vaffanculo’s with the chanting of an Inter Milan player’s name and then “pezzo di merda.” As in, for example, “Zanetti piece of shit.” They also broke into song once or twice singing along to the tune of Guantanamera but replacing the Guantanamera with “pezzo di merda” and then a player’s name so that the tune went something like this – “♫pezzo di merda. Zanetti, pezzo di merda. ♪♪ peeeezzzzzo di merdaaa, ♫ Zanetti, pezzo di merda.” Again, imagine a huge crowd all swearing together in song. Fascinating and entertaining stuff, I tell you.
The most perplexing expression of loyalty for me, however, was the yelling of “cinesi vai via!” or “non ci sono cinesi in Italia!” This translates as “Chinese go away” and “There are no Chinese in Italy.” As factually incorrect, and as racially insensitive, as these comments were, the funny thing to me is that they were yelling these insults at Inter Milan player Yuto Nagatomo . . . who is Japanese. I swear I saw Nagatomo looking around for the mysterious Chinese guy once or twice.
The final thing that I noticed about Italian football games is that the previously blogged about colpo d’aria – the dreaded hit of air – that Italians feel must be avoided at all times and at all costs for fear of ending up in the hospital – seems to have a waiver for football matches.
During our game, for example, the weather was rainy and cold and yet scores of fans were without umbrellas or rain gear. And quite a few were without shirts. In the rain! There they were, standing in the freezing rain, getting hit by air for 2+ hours and not a one seemed to be concerned that they were going to end up in the hospital. Once again, questions arise in my American mind about the colpo d’aria malady.
Alas, for Parma fans, despite their best insults and choral talent, Inter Milan won. Parma didn’t score a single goal so I didn’t get to see the post score craze of happy fans that I craved. And despite the racist epithets, Nagatomo dominated the field. But, you know what they say . . . karma is a Japanese Inter Milan player.
Ok. Each of you Americans out there – I want you to stop what you are doing and go hug your dryer. Personally I never thought about my dryer before moving to Europe. It was just another appliance. There was the occasional story about a family whose house caught on fire due to too much lint in the vent, and I’d stop and think,”how awful” and “what a tragedy” and I would make a mental note to clean out my venting tube. And then I’d forget about it again. Then we moved to Italy.In Italy, most people line dry their laundry. Dryers are available, but we were told they are expensive to run since electricity is costly there. It is not uncommon to see laundry hanging on lines outside apartments and houses. It is also not uncommon to visit a friend’s home and see laundry drying in various places. It is not rude. It is simply a way of life. In fact, it is one of the things that Americans find charming when they visit. It can be beautiful and colorful. It evokes a simpler time. Days gone by.
When we first arrived in Italy and were in temporary housing Joe told me that the washing cycle took about 2 hours. I scoffed. Surely he must not have understood the instructions. Turns out, he understood better than I did. After all, he had been living there for 6 months. The wash cycle at the temporary housing did indeed take 2 hours. Thus, when we were looking for a washing machine to buy, I wanted the largest load capacity that we could find. If it was going to take 2 hours per load I wanted to wash as many things as I could in one cycle. And we found a big one! Unfortunately, it had to be returned. It was too big to fit up our narrow Italian stairs. Eventually, we found one that fit and could run a load in 1 hour. We were making progress. We were fortunate enough to have a large laundry room so we had the space to line dry laundry out of sight. And, there was the environmental impact. I knew that if you line dry your clothes HALF OF THE TIME you will save 1150 pounds of CO2 emissions . . . the work of 23 trees! I felt good about that. Plus, I was in Italy and as they say, “when in Rome” . . . I was committed to line drying.
What I didn’t realize is that depending on the season, clothes don’t always dry quickly. And, while the laundry room was large, it had no ventilation. In fact, many times the dampness of the laundry room left the clothes smelling musty and moldy and I would have to wash them all over again. I then had to place towels and jeans strategically on radiators all over the house since they take a particularly long time to dry. And all the other items in the living room in front of an open window – even when it was cold out – letting all the warm air escape. So much for energy efficiency.
In some cases, when you combined the length of time that it took to run a load of laundry, with hanging clothes, the actual drying process, then taking them off the hangers, then folding it and putting it away – one load of laundry would take up to three days from start to finish. I was constantly checking laundry. In the winter, if I had to rewash a load, it would be a 4 – 5 day process for each load. We had a few mishaps. “Mom, I am out of jeans to wear.” Ooops. One cannot magically run a load of laundry and guarantee that they’d be dry overnight. Laundry became a strategy. A lifestyle.
While I did feel good about reducing our carbon footprint by line drying,* I grew weary of the process and the resulting crunchy clothing and towels. Italians have these big industrial sized steam irons they use to soften up crunchy clothes. Yup, they iron their towels, sheets, socks, underwear and jeans to make them soft again. The thing was, I was already spending a significant part of my day, every day, on laundry. I did not want to add steam ironing into the mix. Besides, after using a towel once or twice or wearing your jeans for a day, they soften up . . . a bit.
So anyway, imagine my delight when we moved into our house in Sweden and I went down to the basement and discovered that our rental included a dryer! I ran a load of laundry (30 minutes! Let’s hear it for Swedish efficiency!) and placed it in the dryer.
Now, calling it a dryer is a bit of a misnomer. It doesn’t dry the clothing with heated air producing fluffy warm clothes, towels and sheets. It works by spinning the clothes and wicking the water out into a container at the bottom of the machine. I set it for 90 minutes. I returned 90 minutes later only to realize it had not completed its cycle. The laundry was still soaking wet. I fumbled about trying to figure out why and realized that the machine stops once the container at the bottom is full of water. I emptied the container. The machine started up again. When I checked on it again 30 minutes later, again, the container was full and the cycle had once again stopped. I emptied the container and started the machine again.
This went on for about 3 more hours. I could have taken them out and just line dried them, however, at this point I was in the middle of an experiment. I wanted to find out how long this was going to take.The next morning (yes you heard me correctly) I set it for another 90 minutes. Surely, there could not be enough water left in the clothes to fill the container again. OMG! I was wrong. After 2 more 90 minute cycles including breaks for emptying the water container, the clothes were dry. That particular load took 30 hours start to finish. I guess 30 hours is better than 48 or 72. I don’t know if our dryer is an old crappy one or this is the norm, but I have now resigned myself to line drying the clothes and placing towels and jeans strategically on radiators again. I am back to saving the planet.
And while saving the planet feels good, I have a confession to make . . . truth be told, I miss being able to dry jeans, sweatshirts and towels in a heated wonderland. So my American brethren, heed my tale of woe. Go hug your dryer. Clean its venting tube, its lint trap and wipe down the exterior. Treat it like the appliance it is. And give it a kiss from me.
I live in what one acquaintance referred to as a “ridiculously cute town.” Another friend said it looked like a town from a Disney movie.
It is clean, safe, the schools are excellent, and there are many parks and greenbelts. We have an old fashioned downtown complete with parades featuring kids, dogs and a group of old men who don oversized pants and call themselves the Balloon Brigade.
The weather is damn near perfect and we can get to the beach, the mountains, wine country, rivers, and lakes within a few hours. We are surrounded by nature’s majestic beauty but we are also a mere 40 minutes by public transportation from San Francisco. They even play pleasant Muzak at the gas station. So given all the wonderment that my town offers, I can’t help but wonder why I feel that I am slowly losing my mind living in one of the most pleasant places on Earth?
Loads of people assure me on a regular basis that “this is the best place to live.” They tell me that they do not wish to ever live anywhere else and hope to live here until they die.
I sigh, bite the inside of my cheek, and quiet the voice in my head that wonders why I don’t feel the same way.
I realized that I was losing my mind because suburban bliss was depleting my gypsy sense of adventure. I agree that our town offers many wonderful benefits, but I don’t share the majority view that this is to be my final town, my end of days. My gypsy spirit is waning under the reality of working full time, raising 2 kids and being a wife. While my life is very enjoyable, I am missing the energy that exploration has always provided me. I need to fuel my curiosity.
Living in a perfect place also makes me feel a bit guilty. I feel guilty that I am restless when I have so much. Stronger than the guilt, though, is the belief that I want more than the trappings of perfection for my children’s lives. I want my children to know that the world is made up of countless amazing places, cultures, people, art, food. I want them to see and experience the underbelly of life – the poverty, trash and homelessness that one sees in a city – because if they never see these things, they will not know that these things are problems that our world faces. If they don’t see these things, they will not know humanity and how to face a problem head on. If they don’t see these things, they may not learn compassion. If they don’t see that their suburban world is an anomaly and that most people do not live as they do, then they may not appreciate their own good fortune. I want my children to learn that you don’t have to be afraid of someone or some culture or some religion that is different than theirs. I want them to be citizens of the world.
I have been pacing my island of suburban perfection for months. I think it is time for a swim.
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