Holland Off The Beaten Path | Marvelous Maastricht

October 30, 2018 Niche Travel Design10 Comments

Visiting Holland, most people head to Amsterdam or The Hague. A little bit off the beaten path lies Marvelous Maastricht. The first adjective that comes to mind when I think of Maastricht is charming. Cobblestoned streets, Baroque, Romanesque and Renaissance architecture, large market squares, cafes and a riverfront all add to its appeal.

MAASTRICHT | STEEPED IN HISTORY

One thing that the locals are quite proud of is that the EU was officially formed and ratified as a result of the Maastricht Treaty of 1992. A pretty big development in European history.

“But Maastricht was not the end of history. It was a first step towards a Europe of growth, of employment, a social Europe.

That was the vision of Francois Mitterrand.”

Laurent Fabius

Maastricht also claims to be the oldest city in the Netherlands. The town of Nijmegen also makes that claim, but either way, Maastricht was the site of archeological relics dating between 8,000 to 25,000 years old!

Basilica of St. Servatius

Student bicycles. Maastricht

The name Maastricht is derived from Latin and means “crossing at the Meuse.” The crossing being an ancient Roman bridge built in the 1st century AD over the River Maas. Unfortunately, the ancient bridge is gone, but this delightful town still straddles the Maas river and boasts of being walking distance to Belgium, cycling distance to Germany and a quick drive to France. A true international crossroad.

And international it is. It is not uncommon to hear Dutch, German, French, and English on the streets and in the many cafes. Maastricht’s proximity to 3 other countries together with the international student population of Maastricht University has birthed a vibrant, multi-cultural population bustling with the palpable energy that comes with youth and diversity.

MAASTRICHT SIGHTS | THE MARKET SQUARE AND HET VRIJTHOF

At the heart of the city lie 2 distinct squares. The largest square, called Het Vrijthof, is a large space surrounded by restaurants and cafés with outdoor seating, a pavilion, and public art. It is one of the larger public squares I have seen in Europe. It is home to the Sint-Jan and Sint-Servaas churches, and the Generaalshuis. Het Vrijthof is also home to most of the public events happening in Maastricht – summer concerts, and the annual Christmas market.

Basilica of St. Servatius on Het Vrijthof. Maastricht

Public art on Het Vrijthof. Maastrict

Het Vrijthof. Maastrict

About a 6-7 minute walk from Het Vrijhof, is Maastricht’s Market Square or Markt, home to the city’s weekly food markets, flea market and the city hall – a large white building that evokes a wedding cake.

Town hall on the Market Square of Maastricht. Photo credit: iStock

Both squares lie in the heart of the city and either is a good place to begin your tour. If you are anything like my family, the first thing we typically do is taste the local cuisine. And Maastricht does not disappoint.

MAASTRICHT FOOD | FIRST ON THE AGENDA, GO EAT!

As mentioned previously, the rich and diverse culture in Maastricht means a rich and diverse selection of food. Known as the culinary capital of The Netherlands, one can find restaurants and food shops with Dutch, French, German, Belgian, and Portuguese influences. Surrounding Het Vrijthof, one finds a plethora of cafes and restaurants with outdoor seating perfect to sip a coffee, people watch, and have a fantastic bite to eat.

The many cafes surrounding the large public square Het Vrijthof. Maastricht.

MAASTRICHT FOOD |AMAZING DELICATESSENS

While Maastricht offers many amazing restaurants and varied cuisines, it is also home to some incredible delicatessens. If the weather is cooperating, a really pleasant way to enjoy your lunch is to visit one of the many specialty food stores and take a picnic in the Stadspark Maastricht.

The 2 delis that peaked our interest were Saveurs Traiteurwinkel Maastricht and Caravela Delicatessen.

Saveurs is a one-stop gourmet heaven. Saveurs offers specialty food, catering, take-out meal prep, and a food truck. Food is prepared daily and they are famous for their meatloaf. Yes, meatloaf made by combining minced Limousin beef and Duroc pork, then hand wrapping the meatoaf in bread paneer from the bakery Bisschopsmolen. It is like a Meatloaf Wellington.

Caravela Delicatessen is another incredible food store specializing in products from Portugal – Portuguese wines and Port, olive oil, piri piri, cheese and my favorite Portuguese treat, pastel de nata. Since I love everything about Portugal, we opted to get our picnic here. And it did not disappoint.

MAASTRICHT TO DO | A SHOPPER’S DELIGHT

Once you have finished your meal, you can easily walk it off. The town is an architectural delight and walking around is a treat for the eyes. And, there is ample shopping on both sides of the river with lots of interesting, independent boutiques. No matter where you wander, you will be a stone’s throw from shopping heaven. There were so many stores and boutiques on every street that we lost count.

Shopper's Paradise. Maastricht. — Shopper’s Paradise. Maastricht.

MAASTRICT TO DO | VISIT THE MOST BEAUTIFUL BOOKSTORE

If you are shopping on the western side of the river, be sure to stop by the Dominicanen bookstore. This glorious bookstore is housed in a repurposed,
700 year old church. Over the years the building was utilized for a variety of functions, finally settling on an identity as a bookstore, coffee bar, and event center for lectures, debates, and exhibitions.

Photo credit: http://maastrichttourism.nl

Even if you are not looking for a book, it is worth a visit. The combination of books and cathedral features are stunning. CNN Travel named this bookstore one of the coolest bookstores in the world.

MAASTRICHT TO DO | REST YOUR BARKING DOGS ON A BOAT CRUISE

If your dogs are barking (an American idiom meaning your feet are tired) rest them while you cruise the Maas River on one of the many boat tours. One can cruise in groups, rent an individual boat, or go on pre-arranged cruises. Prices vary according to the theme and the length of the trip. You can tour the locks, have brunch, a pancake breakfast, a historical tour or an evening cocktail tour. There are options to suit just about every interest and some of the evening options have a different theme each month. Maastricht clearly embraces the river as part of its culture.

Unfortunately, we did not have time to actually take a boat cruise, thus, while I cannot make a recommendation, I can provide you with some basic information on the available tours. The 2 main tour companies are GetMyBoat and Stiphout Tours.

MAASTRICHT TOURS | OTHER WAYS TO EXPLORE

If boating is not your thing, not to worry, Maastricht offers many options for touring. One can rent bikes or Segways, take a train, or join a walking tour or architectural tour.

The stunning architecture of Maastricht.

MAASTRICHT TOURS | GO TO HELL

While there is nothing hellish about Maastricht, one can also literally go to Hell’s Gate. Hells Gate or Helpoort is one of the last standing remnants of the medieval city walls constructed in the 1200’s. The gate served as the southern entrance to the city and was so named due to the fact that prisoners were actually locked away in the tower of the gate. Thus, it was the Gate to Hell for the prisoners.

Helport. Maastrict. Photo credit: http://maastrichttourism.nl

Inside one finds a museum detailing the history of Maastricht with insights into the city’s history as well as its prominence in the region.

MAASTRICHT TOURS | GO UNDERGROUND

One of the most interesting things about Maastricht to me, was the 80 km of tunnels and caves under the city.

This labyrinth of caves and tunnels have served many important functions vital to the city since their inception. These man-made tunnels were the result of the underground quarrying of stone. T he St. Pietersberg caves and tunnels were formed as stones were harvested and used to literally build the city of Maastricht on its shoulders.

The caves and tunnels have also shouldered some heavy historical responsibilities. During WWII, the caves housed Jewish people hiding from the Nazis. Hidden deep inside the damp, dark tunnels, fighting to survive each day, the Jewish inhabitants somehow managed to create a water supply, a bakery and a temple inside the tunnels. Despite the horrors of war, the human spirit survived and made life in the cold dark tunnels as comfortable as they possibly could. While not an ideal living situation, the tunnels saved the lives of many.

The caves and tunnels also saved the most famous Dutch art from man’s folly. On the tour of the tunnels, one can see National Storage Location Number 9 also known as The Kluis. The Kluis, was built at the beginning of WWII to hide the most important Dutch art from destruction and theft. An estimated 800 works of art were housed in the Kluis for over 3 years. Some of the works that were saved include Rembrandt’s Night Watch, Potter’s The Young Bull, and Vermeer’s Little Street. Fascinating stuff.

MAASTRICHT COFFEE CULTURE | GRAB A CUPPA’ JOE

After all the eating, shopping and touring, it is time for one last coffee. Given this is a university town, there are a plethora of coffee shops to chose from.

Coffee and cafes abound in Maastricht.

The locals will all tell you that a visit to Maastricht must include a coffee at Blache Dael. The oldest coffee house in the province of Limburg, Blache Dael opened in 1878. Their claim to fame is that every day they have a different freshly roasted coffee.

I would say that the second most talked about coffee shop is Alley Cat & Bikes. Alley Cat Bikes & Coffee is a coffee bar, a social hub, a creative workspace, and a bicycle repair shop. An important stop for the large student community. They also serve fresh food made from local suppliers.

If you get a chance to visit Maastricht, I hope that you enjoy it as much as we did. Maastricht truly is a food, history, shopping, and architectural paradise.

Americans abroad · Dalsland · European travel · ex-pat life · Honeymoon travel · Insider Tips · international travel · national parks · nature · Off The Beaten Path · Skåne Sweden · The Unique and Unusual · Travel

The Glass Cabins of Sweden

October 25, 2018February 10, 2022 Niche Travel Design22 Comments

Looking for a place to unwind, recharge, and commune with nature, but still want the comforts of a bed, a down comforter, and a gourmet meal? Look no further than The Glass Cabins at Baldersnäs Herrgård.

Afternoon. Glass Cabin at Baldernäs Manor — Sunlight peeking through. The Glass Cabins at Baldersnäs Herrgård

THE SECRET TO HAPPINESS

Sweden is often rated as one of the happiest countries in the world. Living a balanced life between work and play is a key factor in that rating. And part of living a balanced life in Sweden has to do with making nature a part of your life. Swedish people love, and appreciate nature. Swedes like to be outside biking, walking, skating, hiking or camping. This connectedness to nature is a significant part of Swedish culture.

This connection to nature is so significant to the Swedish way of life, that in 2017, Swedish researchers decided to try to measure the precise effects of nature on a person’s happiness and health.

Lake view from the Glass Cabin at Baldernäs Manor. — Lake view from the Glass Cabin at Baldersnäs Manor.

THE 72 HOUR CABINS

The Glass Cabins (also known as the 72 Hour Cabins), were the brainchild of two researchers in the field of stress management. Walter Osika and Cecilia Stenfors developed a program were they brought together 5 people from different backgrounds, different countries and different stressful jobs. The idea was to place the individuals from all walks of life into nature for 72 hours.

For 3 days, or 72 hours, the subjects lived in cabins made of glass. The subjects unplugged their technology and engaged in simple outdoor activities, such as skipping stones on the lake, hiking, swimming, fishing and cooking over a fire. The purpose of the glass cabins was twofold – the researchers wanted people to be comfortable enough to relax, but they also wanted to make sure that nature was always present. The comfortable beds inside cabins with glass walls allowed participants to sleep under the stars and wake to the natural rhythms of the Earth.

Nature from all angles

THE RESULTS

Good news! All 5 participants in the 72 hour study demonstrated a decrease in anxiety, blood pressure and heart rates. They relaxed. They de-stressed. Participants reported a better overall sense of well being and peacefulness. Those results alone would be sufficient to render the experiment a success, but in addition, participants also reported an increased feeling of creativity and improved problem-solving.

Incredible right? What fantastic news. It only takes 3 days for each us to become healthier and happier. With a simple prescription of some nature in your life, you too, can reduce stress and find more joy.

I had to see the cabins for myself.

DALSLAND, SWEDEN

I headed up to Dalsland in western Sweden to the Glass Cabins located on the Baldersnäs Herrgård country estate in Dals Långed.

I was met by the lovely and charming, Susanne Björk Jensen who showed me around the estate and then gave me a tour of these amazing, innovative glass cabins.

Baldersnäs Herrgård is a beautiful country estate from the turn of the century that has been transformed into a luxury hotel. It sits on a peninsula surrounded by nature’s bounty.

The estate sits adjacent to a nature preserve where The Glass Cabins are located.

The first cabin sits on a small bluff overlooking Lake Låxsjön. The first cabin is a quick jaunt from the country estate offering an easy journey up for a gourmet meal, a massage or a delicious cup of morning coffee in the English garden.

The cabin has many lovely large trees and offers a sweeping view of the lake. My tour guide, Susanne spoke of waking up there with a mist on the lake, the sounds of birds greeting the dawn, a hint of sunlight peeking up from behind the forest trees. It sounded like a little slice of heaven.

The property and nature preserve are both spectacular and the cabins ease gently into the landscape. The cabins are inviting with simple decor and muted soft colors. The simplicity evokes a Zen like feeling. Very inviting. Very relaxing. I wanted to jump right in the bed and take a nap. Curtains are provided along the glass walls to allow for privacy. Even with the curtains pulled, however, the glass ceiling still allows nature to envelope you.

The soft relaxing interior of the Glass Cabins — The Glass Cabin. Interior.

The second cabin is approximately 200 meters away and sits atop a small hill surrounded by trees. The second cabin was more secluded than the first cabin, yet it too sported a lovely view of Lake Låxsjön. The second glass cabin also has the added bonus of being steps away from the sauna on the lake.

Lakeside sauna. Baldernäs Manor — Lakeside sauna. Baldersnäs Manor.

The Glass Cabins at Baldernäs Herrgård — The Glass Cabins at Baldersnäs Herrgård

The original glass cabins used in the experiment are located on a private island of Henriksholm, in south-east Dalsland. These glass cabins are remote, accessible by boat and should be booked well in advance.

A second set of glass cabins can be found in the center of Dalsland region near Lake Iväg. Those cabins must be booked through Dalsland Activities.

The reason I like the glass cabins at Baldersnäs Manor is that in addition to unplugging and unwinding by inviting nature into your room, one can also relax by golfing, taking a yoga class, enjoying a massage and/or partaking in a gourmet food and wine experience featuring local foods.

The Glass Cabins are just a 2 hour drive from Gothenburg.

The Glass cabins at Baldersnäs Manor can be booked by contacting;

Susanne Björk Jensen
Baldersnäs Manor
Baldersnäs Herrgård
Baldersnäs 22
600 10 Dals Långed
http://www.baldersnas.com
info@baldersnas.com
+46 531 412 13

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AbSmåland: Where The Unexpected Meets The Traditional

October 21, 2018 Niche Travel Design3 Comments

My New Favorite Cafe In Malmö

I went for coffee today with my daughter and discovered my new favorite cafe/store/space in Malmö, Sweden, AbSmåland.

Hard to describe, but oh so inviting, AbSmåland is a “lifestyle concept where the unexpected meets the traditional.” It is a gardening and plant store, a cafe, a furniture store, a home design store, a space for creating and a baby store. It takes up 1450 square meters. It is a big, luscious space. And it smells reeeaally good.

We started in the cafe. AbSmåland’s café is organic and fair trade. And, in my humble opinion, they have the best cardamom roll in Sweden. Unfortunately, as it was not gluten free, I could only have a nibble and appreciate it from afar.

The perfect cappuccino

My daughter and I both had pretty decent cappuccinos (after Italy it is hard to be impressed) but the nicest bit was free regular coffee refills. We were there long enough that the lunch crowd starting wandering in. The lunch smells began wafting out of the kitchen. Did I mention that it smells really good in there? The cafe serves soup, salad, and the famous Swedish smörgås (open faced sandwiches).

The Space

After coffee and buns, we wandered around the rest of the space. I read that the space wants to invite creativity and curiosity. As such, throughout the space, there have placed windows, plants and lots of color.

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They also offer bedding, clothing and baby items for the ever so modern and stylish Swedish babies.

AbSmåland | Stuffed Lion

AbSmåland | Swedish Bunny

The Workshop

As I was leaving I asked one of the employees what was upstairs. “Go explore and find out” was his response. Challenge accepted. I discovered that the upper floor houses a workshop that offers creative endeavors.

At the workshop one can create: your own textile to upholster the furniture that you purchased downstairs; your own seasonal bouquets with a professional florist as your teacher; macrame baskets; your own hanging garden. The workshop also facilitates sessions with local artists from time to time.

AbSmåland’s website says that their ambition “is to offer an inspiring venue with a creative atmosphere where everyone feels welcome.” I would say that they have succeeded. I, for one, cannot wait to return.

You can find AbSmåland at:
Södra Förstadsgatan 25/27
211 43 Malmö
072-248 89 20
hej@absmaland.com

Americans abroad · art · European travel · ex-pat life · Holland · Honeymoon travel · Insider Tips · international travel · Modern Art · Off The Beaten Path · The Netherlands · The Unique and Unusual

The Stedelijk – The Goldilocks of Museums

June 21, 2018 Niche Travel Design7 Comments

Things Don’t Always Go As Planned

This past February the “Beast From The East“ descended upon Amsterdam just as we arrived to visit. It was cold. Really cold. In fact, it was miserable walking around the city and bikes seemed like it would only make it worse as we would have to cut through the cold wind.

So what to do Amsterdam when it is colder
than a Polar Bear’s toenails outside?

Head inside. Thankfully, my daughter loves art and plans on studying art history, so off we went to the Van Gough Museum. The next day there was a discussion of going to the Rijksmuseum. I opted out. No offense to anyone, but Dutch Masters aren’t my favorite period of art and I’ve seen it. I said I’d find something else to do. But my mind wandered to the modern building we had seen the day before. Hidden in the shadow of the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gough museum is the Stedeljik.

The Stedelijk is the Goldilocks of museums. It is not too small, not too big. It is just the right size.

The collection is primarily modern art, but it also houses quite a few paintings from other artistic genres. For a medium sized museum we all agreed that it is packed full of great art.

The Stedelijk Building

As I mentioned, the Stedelijk can be found tucked behind the Van Gogh Museum and the Rijksmuseums on Museumplein. The Stedelijk is a contemporary art museum and thus, it is fitting that the building itself, a modern glass and steel structure, is a stunning piece of architectural art on its own.

Benthem-Crouwel-Architects-Lensvelt-Stedelijk-Museum-Amsterdam — The Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam. Photo credit: http://www.lensvelt.nl

The Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam. Photo credit: ArchDaily by Jannes Linders

The Original Building

The original collection was made up of art and antiques that were donated to the city of Amsterdam by Sophia Augusta Lopez Suasso de Bruyn, a wealthy widow who wished to have a museum opened in her home and in her name upon her passing. Indeed, the Stedelijk was originally called The Suasso Museum and was housed in her home.

Eventually, Madame Suasso’s home was deemed too small and a new building was designed by A.W. Weissman, a local architect. The new museum building designed by Weissman has a neo renaissance façade with several ornate, figurative sculptures. When the new, modern, wing was added many of the flourishes were lost to modernization and renovations. The Stedelijk´s original and main building was constructed between 1891-1895 at Paulus Potterstraat, at the short walking distance from the Rijksmuseum.

The New Building – aka The Bathtub

Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam — Stedelijk Museum. Photo John Lewis Marshall

A more modern and more functional building was opened in 2012 after almost a decade of renovations. The modern addition, designed by Dutch architects Adriaan Willem Weissman and Benthem Crouwel Architect, is a pretty sharp contrast in style to the Weismann building. After the unveiling of the new addition, many locals thought that the modern aesthetic clashed with the old Stedelijk building, The Concertgebouw, the Van Gogh Museum and the Rijksmuseum. Essentially, they didn’t think the modern style went well with the other buildings in the neighborhood. Locals took to calling the new addition “the bathtub.” In my opinion, the new building fits its purpose of showcasing contemporary art and, an added bonus, it offers amazing views of the Museumplein. I sat and people watched through those big beautiful windows for 40 minutes as I sipped my coffee, warm and toasty away from the cold. It was lovely.

The museum’s purpose has changed many times over the years – going from a private collections of art, collectibles, furniture, and antiques to medical instruments and finally resting on contemporary art and design.

Along with the masters of modern painting genres such as Impressionists, Fauvism, Cubism, Expressionism, the Stedelijk also has a unique collection of furniture, and, photography.

The Collection

The collection includes modern and contemporary art and design from the early 20th century up to the 21st century and features famed masters such as Vincent, van Gough, Wassily Kandinski, Marc Chagall, Henri Matisse, Jackson Pollack, Andy Warhol, Willem de Kooning, and Keith Haring.

Highlights From The Collection

The Stedelijk has everything from quirky artists previously unknown to me . . .

Martial Raysse and Elaine Sturtevang, installation view The collection, STEDELIJK BASE. Photo: Gert Jan van Rooij

Personnage Hilare (Portrait de Francis Ponge) by Jean Dubuffet. 1947.

Lady Chatterly’s Horse. Bill Copley. 1960.

to the masters of the modern movement . . .

Rosy Fingered Dawn at louise Point. Willem de Kooning. 1963.

Cathedra. Barnett Newman. 1951.

Untitled (Umber Blue). Mark Rothko. 1962.

North Atlantic Light. Willem de Kooning. 1977.

to the masters:

La femme enceinte (Maternité). Marc Chagall. 1913.

La Montagne Sainte-Victoire. Paul Cézanne. 1888.

Odalisque. Henri Matisse. 1921.

Femme nue devant le Jardin. Pablo Picasso. 1956

Le Violoniste. Marc Chagall. 1912 -1913.

Kitchen Gardens on Monmartre. Vincent van Gough. 1887.

Two Surroundings. Wassily Kandinsky. 1934

Femme assise au chapeau en forme de poisson. Pablo Picasso. 1942.

Femme dans un paysage – Anna Boch 1890. Legend has it that Anna Boch was the only person to have purchased apainting from Vincent van Gough while he was alive. This has been dabted but it is the reason that her work hangs next to van Goughs work at The Stedelijk.

La Berceuse (Woman Rocking a Cradle. Vincent van Gough. 1889.

And, The Keith Haring Velum

American artist, Keith Haring, began his career in 1980, drawing graffiti in the New York subway. During a brief, but intense, career that spanned the 1980s, Haring’s work was featured in over 100 solo and group exhibitions. In 1986 alone, he was the subject of more than 40 newspaper and magazine articles.

In 1986, at the heigh of his career, Haring agreed to create a special piece for The Stedelijk. From The Stedelijk website: “The American artist painted the canopy, which filters daylight into the grand hallway, especially for his solo exhibition at the Stedelijk in 1986. For this show, Haring didn’t simply want to present artwork he’d already made – he insisted on making new work. Laying out the velum (which measures almost 40 x 66 feet, 12 x 20 meter) on the floor of one of the museum galleries, he painted it in just one day, using spray paint. Haring turned the event into an energy-fueled performance: while photographers and journalists looked on, he painted rapidly and rhythmically, moving over the canopy, hip-hop playing in the background. He filled the canopy with dancing, waving figures, crawling babies and squirming animals. Known as the ‘Keith Haring velum’, the painting was stretched below the monumental glass cupola above the historic staircase. The painting was an instant hit. Now, more than thirty years later and restored, the velum is back for everyone to enjoy.”

The photos do not do the velum justice. It was beautiful in person with the light slipping through and contrasting the parts untouched by sun.

Keith-Haring-Stedelijk-Museum-Amsterdam — Keith Haring. Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam

Keith-Haring-velum-the-Stedelijk-Museum-Amsterdam. — The Keith Haring velum. The Stedelijk Museum, Amsterdam.

Practicalities

Hours:
Monday – Thursday and Saturday and Sunday: 10:00 – 18:00
Friday: 10:00 – 22:00

Tickets:
You can buy your tickets in person or online at Stedelijk museum tickets.

Adults:	€17,50
Children under 18:	free
Students (29 yrs or younger), Cultural Youth pass (CJP)	€9
20% discount with Amsterdam City Pass

Address:
Stedelijk Museum
Museumplein 10
1071 DJ Amsterdam
The Netherlands

If you get a chance to visit the Stedelijk, I hope that you enjoy it as much as we did. Maybe because we had not planned on going, in fact none of us had even heard of it, it turned out to be one of those serendipitous moments where things did not go as planned, but we ended up with a lovely surprise.

Americans abroad · Emilia Romagna · European travel · ex-pat life · ex-pat reality · football · Insider Tips · Italy · Parma Italy · soccer · Travel · world cup

The Most Popular Game In The World

June 13, 2018February 10, 2022 Niche Travel Design9 Comments

Football match in Italy. Parma vs. Inter Milan — Italian football match. Parma vs. Inter Milan

Italian Passion

Italians are a passionate bunch in general, and their passion for life can be triggered on a dime. Amazingly though, they also seem to make up with one another right away. I have seen them yelling and screaming at each other, faces reddened, spittle flying, arms waving and then shake hands and walk away five minutes later. Given this passionate culture, I was eager to attend a football match because one thing that Italians are very passionate about is football, the most popular game in the world. You know, what we Americans call soccer.

Football, The Most Popular Game In The World

We decided to support our local football team and we went to watch Parma play against Inter Milan. I was a tad nervous because my husband had warned me that when Parma scores the crowd goes a little crazy – their passions are unfurled with yelling, screaming, shoving, running up and down the stands. Joe was actually knocked over at the last game he went to. He was not hurt, but that knowledge made me anxious as neither my daughter, nor I, do well in crowds. I was also anxious because Inter Milan was ranked fifth and Parma was ranked sixth, so tensions were indeed high. Ultimately. my desire to experience Italy to its fullest won out over my fear. We donned our blue and yellow and headed out to the stadium.

Upon arriving, I noticed that there is no alcohol allowed at an Italian soccer game. Now, bear in mind that Italy is a place where one can find a full bar just about everywhere – the park, the movie theater, the shopping mall, the gym. But not at a football stadium. I have to say, that I support this practice. I think it is a wise idea to prohibit alcohol at sporting events where passion and loyalties are on overdrive. One of my dear friends in California is a sweet, gentle guy unless you encounter him at the UCLA/USC football game. Then, he is a rabid dog. Give him some beer at the UCLA/USC game and he is a rabid bear. It may be a good thing for America to follow the Italian example in this case.

Something else that I noticed was that even stone cold sober, Italian fans are INTENSE about, and loyal to, their football team. One of our Italian friends welcomed his second daughter into the world on the morning of the game that we attended, but he still made it to the match that afternoon!

Warning – Foul Language Ahead

The intense loyalty that they feel for their team is most often manifested by hurling insults at the other team. Through the entire game, Parma fans were chanting “Inter, Inter, vaffanculo, vaffanculo!” which literally translates as “Inter, Inter, up your a**,” but is used more as Americans use f^%k you. Imagine half of a stadium chanting “f^%k you!” Here were some of the antics I was hoping to experience.

Italians are a poetic people. They value the poetry of their art, food, fashion and language. Given this love of language, a simple vaffanculo would not suffice and the fans occasionally intermixed the vaffanculo’s with the chanting of an Inter Milan player’s name and then “pezzo di merda.” As in, for example, “Zanetti piece of shit.” They also broke into song once or twice singing along to the tune of Guantanamera but replacing the Guantanamera with “pezzo di merda” and then a player’s name so that the tune went something like this – “♫ pezzo di merda. Zanetti, pezzo di merda. ♪♪ peeeezzzzzo di merdaaa, ♫ Zanetti, pezzo di merda.” Again, imagine a huge crowd all swearing together in song. Fascinating and entertaining stuff, I tell you.

The most perplexing expression of loyalty for me, however, was the yelling of “cinesi vai via!” or “non ci sono cinesi in Italia!” This translates as “Chinese go away” and “There are no Chinese in Italy.” As factually incorrect, and as racially insensitive, as these comments were, the funny thing to me is that they were yelling these insults at Inter Milan player Yuto Nagatomo . . . who is Japanese. I swear I saw Nagatomo looking around for the mysterious Chinese guy once or twice.

The final thing that I noticed about Italian football games is that the previously blogged about colpo d’aria – the dreaded hit of air – that Italians feel must be avoided at all times and at all costs for fear of ending up in the hospital – seems to have a waiver for football matches.

During our game, for example, the weather was rainy and cold and yet scores of fans were without umbrellas or rain gear. And quite a few were without shirts. In the rain! There they were, standing in the freezing rain, getting hit by air for 2+ hours and not a one seemed to be concerned that they were going to end up in the hospital. Once again, questions arise in my American mind about the colpo d’aria malady.

Alas, for Parma fans, despite their best insults and choral talent, Inter Milan won. Parma didn’t score a single goal so I didn’t get to see the post score craze of happy fans that I craved. And despite the racist epithets, Nagatomo dominated the field. But, you know what they say . . . karma is a Japanese Inter Milan player.

Americans abroad · Emilia Romagna · European travel · ex-pat life · ex-pat reality · Insider Tips · international travel · Italy · laundry

Do You Iron Your Jeans and Underwear? How To Do Laundry In Italy

June 11, 2018 Niche Travel DesignLeave a comment

Ok. Each of you Americans out there – I want you to stop what you are doing and go hug your dryer. Personally I never thought about my dryer before moving to Europe. It was just another appliance. There was the occasional story about a family whose house caught on fire due to too much lint in the vent, and I’d stop and think,”how awful” and “what a tragedy” and I would make a mental note to clean out my venting tube. And then I’d forget about it again. Then we moved to Italy.In Italy, most people line dry their laundry. Dryers are available, but we were told they are expensive to run since electricity is costly there. It is not uncommon to see laundry hanging on lines outside apartments and houses. It is also not uncommon to visit a friend’s home and see laundry drying in various places. It is not rude. It is simply a way of life. In fact, it is one of the things that Americans find charming when they visit. It can be beautiful and colorful. It evokes a simpler time. Days gone by.

When we first arrived in Italy and were in temporary housing Joe told me that the washing cycle took about 2 hours. I scoffed. Surely he must not have understood the instructions. Turns out, he understood better than I did. After all, he had been living there for 6 months. The wash cycle at the temporary housing did indeed take 2 hours. Thus, when we were looking for a washing machine to buy, I wanted the largest load capacity that we could find. If it was going to take 2 hours per load I wanted to wash as many things as I could in one cycle. And we found a big one! Unfortunately, it had to be returned. It was too big to fit up our narrow Italian stairs. Eventually, we found one that fit and could run a load in 1 hour. We were making progress. We were fortunate enough to have a large laundry room so we had the space to line dry laundry out of sight. And, there was the environmental impact. I knew that if you line dry your clothes HALF OF THE TIME you will save 1150 pounds of CO2 emissions . . . the work of 23 trees! I felt good about that. Plus, I was in Italy and as they say, “when in Rome” . . . I was committed to line drying.

What I didn’t realize is that depending on the season, clothes don’t always dry quickly. And, while the laundry room was large, it had no ventilation. In fact, many times the dampness of the laundry room left the clothes smelling musty and moldy and I would have to wash them all over again. I then had to place towels and jeans strategically on radiators all over the house since they take a particularly long time to dry. And all the other items in the living room in front of an open window – even when it was cold out – letting all the warm air escape. So much for energy efficiency.

In some cases, when you combined the length of time that it took to run a load of laundry, with hanging clothes, the actual drying process, then taking them off the hangers, then folding it and putting it away – one load of laundry would take up to three days from start to finish. I was constantly checking laundry. In the winter, if I had to rewash a load, it would be a 4 – 5 day process for each load. We had a few mishaps. “Mom, I am out of jeans to wear.” Ooops. One cannot magically run a load of laundry and guarantee that they’d be dry overnight. Laundry became a strategy. A lifestyle.

While I did feel good about reducing our carbon footprint by line drying,* I grew weary of the process and the resulting crunchy clothing and towels. Italians have these big industrial sized steam irons they use to soften up crunchy clothes. Yup, they iron their towels, sheets, socks, underwear and jeans to make them soft again. The thing was, I was already spending a significant part of my day, every day, on laundry. I did not want to add steam ironing into the mix. Besides, after using a towel once or twice or wearing your jeans for a day, they soften up . . . a bit.

So anyway, imagine my delight when we moved into our house in Sweden and I went down to the basement and discovered that our rental included a dryer! I ran a load of laundry (30 minutes! Let’s hear it for Swedish efficiency!) and placed it in the dryer.

Now, calling it a dryer is a bit of a misnomer. It doesn’t dry the clothing with heated air producing fluffy warm clothes, towels and sheets. It works by spinning the clothes and wicking the water out into a container at the bottom of the machine. I set it for 90 minutes. I returned 90 minutes later only to realize it had not completed its cycle. The laundry was still soaking wet. I fumbled about trying to figure out why and realized that the machine stops once the container at the bottom is full of water. I emptied the container. The machine started up again. When I checked on it again 30 minutes later, again, the container was full and the cycle had once again stopped. I emptied the container and started the machine again.

This went on for about 3 more hours. I could have taken them out and just line dried them, however, at this point I was in the middle of an experiment. I wanted to find out how long this was going to take. The next morning (yes you heard me correctly) I set it for another 90 minutes. Surely, there could not be enough water left in the clothes to fill the container again. OMG! I was wrong. After 2 more 90 minute cycles including breaks for emptying the water container, the clothes were dry. That particular load took 30 hours start to finish. I guess 30 hours is better than 48 or 72. I don’t know if our dryer is an old crappy one or this is the norm, but I have now resigned myself to line drying the clothes and placing towels and jeans strategically on radiators again. I am back to saving the planet.

And while saving the planet feels good, I have a confession to make . . . truth be told, I miss being able to dry jeans, sweatshirts and towels in a heated wonderland. So my American brethren, heed my tale of woe. Go hug your dryer. Clean its venting tube, its lint trap and wipe down the exterior. Treat it like the appliance it is. And give it a kiss from me.

* http://www.simpleecology.com/eco/clothesline.html

Americans abroad · Croatia · European travel · ex-pat life · Honeymoon travel · Insider Tips · international travel · Krka · national parks · nature · Plitvice · Plitvice Lakes · Travel · travel safety

Krka National Park – More Than Just The Blue Lagoon

May 23, 2018February 10, 2022 Niche Travel Design33 Comments

DALMATIA

When we visited Croatia we opted to forego the more well known spots like Dubrovnik and Hvar in exchange for visiting Croatia’s many national parks. The biggest concentration of national parks lie in the northern part of the country so we made Dalmatia, namely Zadar, our home base as Zadar was within a few hours drive from each of the parks we wanted to visit. After Plitvice, Krka National Park was next on our Croatian bucket list.

Krka National Park

I will say that in general, when cruising about Croatia and neighboring Bosnia Herzegovina, waterfalls are everywhere. You see them along the side of the road, but a few are standouts and Krka National Park offers 7 waterfalls (buk or slap) in one park.

The Park

Krka is the second most visited national park in Croatia after Plitvice with over 1 million visitors each year. Krka has become so popular in recent years that it has begun to limit the number of visitors each day to 10,000. My advice, get there early or book online to reserve space. And bring your swim suit, because unlike Plitvice, at Krka, you are allowed to enjoy the cool, refreshing waters. At least for now.

Even prior to being designated a national park in 1985, the area’s splendor was enjoyed for centuries. The highlight of the park is its river and 7 major waterfalls. The Krka River, the source of the all the falls, is over 74 kilometers/46 miles long.

The protected flora and fauna is lush. The park is very clean and you will see fish, various birds, butterflies and dragonflies flitting about.

Within the park, Krka is accessible by a network of planked walkways, hiking trails, cycling trails, roads and boats. One can also add a 5 km/3.1 mile hiking and cycling path from Skradinski Most (Skradin Bridge) to Skradinski buk. Visitors who wish to hike or ride along the trail can purchase their tickets at the reception at Skradinski Most or online.

The park is unique in that in addition to its stunning topography, it also houses 2 monasteries and Roman ruins. Both monasteries, Visovac and the Eastern Orthodox Krka Monastery, date back to the Middle Ages. Burnam, the Roman ruins, date back to 33 BC.

Getting There

From the nearest town along the highway, Šibenik, you will see signs for the park and a specific exit heading to Skradinski Buk.

The road will lead you straight into Lozovac and a large parking area. You will see a ton of tour busses, people, and parking attendants.

After you park, you will find a building where tickets are sold. You cannot miss it. The town is tiny. You will also see a very long line. Leave some of your people in the line and send someone else to get the tickets. The line is for either the bus or the boat (at Skradin) to take you to the falls. As this is one of the most visited sites in Croatia, in high season, the lines can be long so best to have someone saving your spot, while someone else queues for the entrance tickets.

Your entrance ticket includes the bus ride. It does not include the boat ride. As we arrived late, we opted for the bus but I really wanted to take the boat up the river. If you want to take the boats then stop in the town of Skradin to purchase your tickets and catch your boat.

Once the bus or boat lets you off, you have a short walk to the planked walkway around the park on the Skadinski Buk trail. The trail is a 1900 meter/1.1mile long loop leading you around the most amazing spots, rapids, waterfalls and gorgeous flora and fauna. Bring water. The trail is not suitable fo those with limited mobility. The trail is not that difficult in terms of intensity, it is just crowded, hot, and hilly. And there is water on each side of you and no barriers.

INSIDER TIP: If you really just want to swim and see the falls, you can skip the trail and the crowds and walk in the opposite direction of the trail behind a building there are steps which go directly to the falls and lagoon.

Sites In The Park

When people talk about Krka, they are usually referring to the famous Skradinski buk also known as Krka’s Blue Lagoon. Skradinski buk and its adjoining lagoon are the falls that you see on all the postcards and in Instagram stories.

Most people do not explore the other parts of the park. I do recommend that if you have the time, you explore the entire park. To see it all properly plan for a minimum of 2 days.

SKRADINSKI BUK

On the way to the famous falls and lagoon, there is plenty to delight your senses.

The crowds move slowly, but that is ok, it means more time to enjoy your surroundings. After about 30 – 40 minutes you will reach Skradinski buk. Skradinski buk is insanely pretty. Again, it is the stuff of postcards and Instagram moments.

And note that Croatia is hot in the summer and the water is cool, refreshing, inviting. We were so hot that once we reached the falls we cold actually feel the cool air. Believe me, all you want to do is get in that water. But first, you have to carve out a spot among the crowds.

The area as you arrive at Skradinski buk is crowded and dusty. There are a lot of people roaming around and unfortunately on the approach side of the lagoon it is difficult to find a spot to leave your belongings where you can see them while swimming. This means that at least one member of your group must stay behind to watch your valuables. If you are traveling solo I suggest asking someone to watch your belongings. You should not leave valuables while you go for a swim with your group. It stinks that you cannot all go in at the same time, but you risk losing all of your belongings if you do.

INSIDER TIPS: You will see a bridge where everyone is taking photos. Cross the bridge and on the other side there is a lot more room to carve out your niche and spread out a blanket. The best part, it is in the shade and along the lagoon so you can see your people as they swim in the lagoon and you can take photos.

Also, bring water, water shoes, a blanket, a picnic. They sell all of it there, but you will pay tourist prices.

VISOVAC MONASTERY

After your swim, you may want to take a boat up river to Visovac Island and monastery. Visovac first welcomed its religious inhabitants in the late 1400’s. At that time Franciscan monks decided the island location was perfect for a hermitage where monks could study in solitude.

By 1576 building of the existing monastery was complete. Over the centuries, the monastery acquired a rich collection of paintings, relics and folk art. The monastery also has a small museum featuring historic church clothes, manuscripts, and rare books, including an illustrated copy of Aesop’s Fables printed in 1487.

Visovac is still an active church and the priests who live there maintain a lovely flower garden worth having a look. They also perform mass if you are there on a Sunday. Mass is held at 11am every Sunday all year long.

Visovac Island is only reachable by boat. You can take the excursion boat from Skradin or special monastery mass boats from Brištane on Sundays.

ROŠKI SLAP

The waterfall Roški slap can be reached by road and by the excursion boats from Skradin. We drove into the park at Roški slap and then made our way down to the famous falls. The drive past Laškovika was stunning.

The natural beauty of Roški slap can be viewed year round.

BURNAM

If archeology is your thing, you have 2 sites to visit at Krka. The first, Burnum, was a Roman military camp. The ruins and archaeological site are located above the canyon and waterfalls.

These Roman ruins officially date back to the year 33 BC, but many archeologists believe the site may be even older. Several Roman legions were located there in succession. the spot was chosen for its vital access to the river which was used for transportation. Also, its gorgeous!

Today, one can visit the ancient amphitheater which still holds concerts on special occasions and a smaller museum which holds the artifacts found on site.

The closest entrance to Burnum is at the Puljane enterance and one must take a car to get there.

OZIDANA PEĆINA CAVE

The second archeological site in Krka is the Oziđana Pećina cave. The cave is located near the very top of the canyon, on the left bank of the Krka River, just above the Roški slap. I could not get it to show up on Google Maps, but the park will have information on its exact location and whether it is open to the public or not. Because it is a working archeological site, it may be closed to the public at times.

The site displays artifacts and evidence of human settlement – things like ceramic dishes, stone artifacts, and human and animal bones dating back to the Neolitihic period from about 5000 BC to about 1500 BC. The Hvar and Danilo cultures are featured prominently.

I am claustrophobic, thus, this was not on my list to see even though I’d love to see the artifacts. The cave is 59 m long/7 m wide/2.5 m high tunnel. No thanks.

KRKA MONASTERY

The Krka Monastery is a Serbian Orthodox monastery dating back to the 12th century. The monastery has had several reincarnations over the centuries, but was originally built on top of a Roman site and has catacombs underneath that can be explored.

The monastery is dedicated to the Archangel Michael and is considered the best known example of the Serbian Orthodox Church in Croatia. The monastery is officially protected as a significant historical site.

Like Visovac, Krka Monastery is still in use, thus, visitors are limited to visiting the catacombs and the church in the company of a national park employee. There are also restrictions on what can be photographed. On site there is a tiny souvenir shop which sells religious artifacts and wine made by the priests.

To reach the Krka Monastery you can take a car or the boats from Skradin. When driving, follow the signs to Kistanje. From there you will see additional signs for the monastery. Parking is limited.

INSIDER TIP: After your visit, if you head down toward the falls, you can stop at a newly constructed viewpoint stop for cars offering a different view and perspective of the monastery. Great photo op!

Prices

The park entrance ticket includes access to the entire park, including an expert presentation at Burnum, another presentation at the mills at Skradinski buk, Roški slap and Oziđana Pećina Cave, access to all walking trails in the park, and bus transport from Lozovac to Skradinski buk and return.

Park entrance prices are subject to change so always check the website for the most recent prices.

Boat Prices – The Skradin excursion boats are not included in the price of your park entrance ticket. All visitors must acquire or purchase their tickets in a Krka National Park branch office in Skradin before boarding the boat. Visitors who purchased their tickets online can board the boat directly with their printed ticket or the bar-code on a smart phone.

As with the park entrance ticket, always check the website for the most recent boat prices. Also, your ticket price will vary according to the location within the park that you choose to visit.

Rules

While swimming is allowed, and is a definite highlight, there are other rules inside Krka that are strictly enforced:

One must not stray from clearly marked bathing areas.
You are not allowed to dive into the swimming area.
You are prohibited from hunting, catching, frightening or disturbing the wild animals.
You must not pick or damage indigenous plants.
You must not break or damage the travertine.
You must not camp or light fires outside of clearly marked areas.
You must dispose of waste in clearly marked garbage bins.
You must not stray from the clearly marked trails.
All dog must be kept on a leash and have a muzzle on at all times. Dogs are not permitted on Visovac Island.
Drones or other unmanned aerial equipment are not allowed in Krka National Park.

As you can see, Krka offers so much more than the one waterfall and lagoon. Skradinski buk is awe inspiring and it seems to stop visitors in their tracks, but it is shame that most people never explore Krka beyond Skradinski buk as there is so much to see and do. If you do visit Krka National Park, I hope that this information may inspire you to look beyond the waterfall.

Americans abroad · European travel · ex-pat life · Honeymoon travel · Insider Tips · international travel · Italy · nature · Off The Beaten Path · Saturnia · spa · The Unique and Unusual · Thermal baths · Travel · Tuscany

Secret Tuscany – The Thermal Baths of Saturnia

May 15, 2018February 10, 2022 Niche Travel Design41 Comments

Locals Only

A few years ago some Italian friends told me about some natural thermal baths in Saturnia, Tuscany. They explained that there was a famous spa one could go to, but that there was also a natural occurring, free version very near the expensive spa, “IF you can find it!”

You see, the trick was that the locals will not tell outsiders how to find the natural thermal baths as they don’t want the natural baths overrun with tourists.

Since we lived In Italy I figured we qualified as locals of sorts. I was determined to find the free thermal baths. Unfortunately, at that time, the natural baths were not part of the standard GPS menu. The only information that we had was that they were near the famed Terme di Saturnia Spa and Golf Resort. Armed with an old fashioned map, American grit and a stubborn streak, we set out to explore.

It was not easy to find. There were no signs and there are a multitude of country roads to chose from. I am nothing, if not persistent though, and eventually we found it.

The kids and me in the front pool – *Cascate del Mulino*

After visiting Cascate del Mulino, I can see why the locals want to preserve this special place. Until now, I have never written about the baths out of respect for the local’s wish to keep it secret and special. Today, good or bad, what the locals feared has come to pass and one can input the location on your GPS. Back then it was such a local secret that when we asked our hotel for directions and they gave us some vague instructions about the general direction to go. Today they advertise the baths on their website.

Two Very Different Experiences

Luxury

If nature is not your thing, rest assured that one has choices when visiting the thermal baths. The resort, Terme di Saturnia Spa and Golf Resort, offers golf, spa treatments, yoga, massage, restaurants and accommodation in addition to thermal baths. It looked amazing and relaxing. The atmosphere is pure luxury. Room rates start at 300 Euros a night.

Rustic

In contrast, the natural (i.e. free) baths, Cascate del Mulino, just down the road, are the complete opposite. At the time that we visited there were no signs and we drove down many a dirt road searching for the mill. The area is unattended by any staff. There were no parking attendants, lifeguards or wait staff serving cocktails and sparkling water. The area was unpaved and dusty. Nearer the mill and falls, it was quite gravely and the actual pools and falls were quite slippery. Water shoes are a must.

The Legend

According to Italian lore the gods Saturn and Zeus were arguing about mortals’ penchant for fighting each other.

Zeus and his Lightening bolt – Photo credit: Newsela

Saturn – Photo Credit: Chronos Speaks

At some point during the argument, Zeus threw a lightening bolt (or a thunderbolt depending on who you ask) at Saturn (or at the mortals depending on who you ask).

The power of this lightening bolt went straight into the Earth and resulted in warm water gushing out, overflowing and enveloping the mortals. Essentially, Zeus gave the mortals a warm bath to calm them down. And it worked, the warm hot springs calmed the mortals, healed their ailments and generally made everyone happier. And it still works today.

The Healing Properties

Who wouldn’t want to heal themselves in waters divined by the gods? These thermal waters have been in use by local Italians since the Etruscan and Roman period. Natural pools have formed out of travertine as a result of 3,000 years of flowing water. The pools are perfectly formed and comfortable. The pools are so perfectly formed and smooth that my husband did not believe that they were naturally made.

The water is a consistent 37.5 °C/99.5 °F which may seem like it would be too hot, but trust me, it is not. It was oh.so.nice. We visited in the spring and I couldn’t help thinking that visiting on a crisp autumn or winter evening would be heaven.

The thermal water contains a myriad of minerals that offer healing powers. A few of the minerals are sulfur, sulphate, sulfide, carbon, bicarbonate, hydrogen, alkaline, thermal plankton, and 2 gasses – hydrogen sulphide and carbon dioxide. The gases give off a rather pungent smell similar to hard boiled eggs. We did not mind the smell, but I was told some people do not like it.

The minerals in the water have been used as a natural therapeutic spa since the the Etruscan and Roman periods. The waters were so revered that the Romans built thermal baths in many of the little villages surrounding the falls. Some of those baths still remain.

What can be cured by soaking in the thermal baths? All kinds of ailments including eczema, psoriasis, respiratory infections, and rheumatoid arthritis, to name a few. The water is also said to detox the body, and improve circulation, cell oxygenation and immune function. For me, the simple relaxation it provided was enough. And an added bonus, the minerals left my skin feeling soft and supple.

Monte Amiata. Photo credit: gps-tour.info

The source of the incredible healing water begins at Monte Amiata. Monte Amiata is a dormant volcano, which despite its dormant status, still pumps in excess of 800 litres/211 gallons of water a second from its depths into the falls. The water begins 200 meters/656 feet below the earth and is heated by the thermal activity of the dormant volcano. I am not a geologist. I admit that I don’t understand how a dormant volcano is still generating this much heat and hydraulics, but, who cares why. I am just glad it does.

Practicalities

Parking is limited. Many people park along the road and in fact that was how we ended up finding the place. There is one small car park at the end of the access road, however, it was jammed packed with cars so don’t count on finding a place.
Never leave valuables in your car.
Water shoes – you must take water shoes. Not only for your comfort on the rocky shore, but for safety in the slippery pools.
The usual bathing suits, towels, a sun umbrella, and sun screen, but you may also want to bring a change of clothes as your bathing suit will smell of sulphur after you get out. Changing occurs under the cover of your towel – again, this is a no frills natural spa and it is Italy where people don’t get hung up about changing on the beach, etc.
Food – bring a picnic, snacks, fresh water, etc. as there is only a tiny snack bar that sells things like ice cream, but not a full service restaurant or store in the area. Also, what a fantastic place for a picnic!

Accommodation

There are many hotels and B&B’s in the area. We stayed at the darling Relais Ciavatta in Maremma and I cannot recommend it more.

Relais Ciavatta offers beautiful Tuscan grounds,

rooms with traditional Tuscan country decor,

Photo credit: Booking.com

an inviting pool,

rcpool — Photo credit: http://www.czemplik.com

a delicious restaurant on site, Osteria la Frasca,

and amazing, friendly staff. One staff member in particular was very attentive and sweet. Luigi, the Jack Russell.

Luigi – the official greeter.

Benvenuti a tutti.

Luigi waiting patiently outside our door for my daughter to play ball with him.

Our day at Cascate del Mulino remains one of my most treasured memories of living in Italy. I like that we had to work to find it. It made it feel like a treasure at the end of a hunt. Like we had made it into the elite club of locals.

Cascate del Mulino is such a unique place that my heart is torn. I want to share it with others and yet, I really hope it does not end up developed and overrun with people. I am hoping that because the baths are a bit off the beaten path, the majority of tourists will not make the trek and the natural thermal baths may retain their natural allure.

While I totally appreciate the spa with its services and luxurious treatments, for me, soaking in ancient, naturally carved pools, with the sound of waterfalls that have been flowing for over 3,000 years, the incredible Tuscan countryside all around me, was an experience of a lifetime.

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Things Don’t Always Go As Planned

The Stedelijk Building

The Original Building

The New Building – aka The Bathtub

The Collection

Highlights From The Collection

And, The Keith Haring Velum

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Italian Passion

Football, The Most Popular Game In The World

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DALMATIA

Krka National Park

The Park

Getting There

Sites In The Park

Rules

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Two Very Different Experiences

The Legend

The Healing Properties

Practicalities

Accommodation

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