Sustainable living is a big commitment in Sweden. Reusing, recycling and repurposing are part of everyday life here. So much so, that communities have even taken to repurposing old railway lines and turning them into tourist routes. If you are looking for an off the beaten path adventure head to Skåne, Sweden’s southernmost region and go on a trolley cycle ride.
Skåne is a quick day trip from Copenhagen and is a landscape rife with farms, forests, creeks, lakes, rivers, streams, beaches, and the Baltic Sea.
Draisine | A Brief History of The Trolley Cycle
Back in the 1800’s rail travel began giving way to the automobile. As trains routes were abandoned in favor of faster and more convenient cars, the railway tracks fell into disrepair. They became overgrown and rarely used. Enter the environmentally friendly Swedish mentality. In the 1970’s communities along the abandoned train tracks decided to repair them and turn them into trolley cycling routes.
Trolley cycles are bicycles designed specially to ride the train tracks. These bikes are easy to peddle and its virtually impossible to topple over making it safe and fun for people of all ages. Built with a bike seat, peddles and handlebars for one, and a bench seat that fits another adult or child. These special bicycles were modeled after the draisine – an old auxiliary rail vehicle invented by Karl Drais. Draisine were utilized by rail service personnel and transport crew to maintain railway infrastructure.
The draisine is allegedly the first commercially successful two-wheeled, steerable, human-propelled machine. the draisine is also known as a hobby-horse or dandy horse.
There are many trolley cycle routes to choose from around Skåne. We rode a route beginning in Tomelilla. The ride was sublime. We passed farmland, forests, creeks, and lots of animals.
It was peaceful and we had perfect weather. We stopped for a light picnic snack at the end of the line.
Practicalities | Where To Find A Trolley Cycle
Trolley cycles can be found in a number of places in Skåne. The routes are varied in topography and length of the route. Trolley cycling is the perfect adventure for friends, families, Mother’s Day or Father’s Day.
Looking for a place to unwind, recharge, and commune with nature, but still want the comforts of a bed, a down comforter, and a gourmet meal? Look no further than The Glass Cabins at Baldersnäs Herrgård.
Sunlight peeking through. The Glass Cabins at Baldersnäs Herrgård
THE SECRET TO HAPPINESS
Sweden is often rated as one of the happiest countries in the world. Living a balanced life between work and play is a key factor in that rating. And part of living a balanced life in Sweden has to do with making nature a part of your life. Swedish people love, and appreciate nature. Swedes like to be outside biking, walking, skating, hiking or camping. This connectedness to nature is a significant part of Swedish culture.
This connection to nature is so significant to the Swedish way of life, that in 2017, Swedish researchers decided to try to measure the precise effects of nature on a person’s happiness and health.
Lake view from the Glass Cabin at Baldersnäs Manor.
THE 72 HOUR CABINS
The Glass Cabins (also known as the 72 Hour Cabins), were the brainchild of two researchers in the field of stress management. Walter Osika and Cecilia Stenfors developed a program were they brought together 5 people from different backgrounds, different countries and different stressful jobs. The idea was to place the individuals from all walks of life into nature for 72 hours.
For 3 days, or 72 hours, the subjects lived in cabins made of glass. The subjects unplugged their technology and engaged in simple outdoor activities, such as skipping stones on the lake, hiking, swimming, fishing and cooking over a fire. The purpose of the glass cabins was twofold – the researchers wanted people to be comfortable enough to relax, but they also wanted to make sure that nature was always present. The comfortable beds inside cabins with glass walls allowed participants to sleep under the stars and wake to the natural rhythms of the Earth.
The Glass Cabin inviting nature inside
Nature from all angles
THE RESULTS
Good news! All 5 participants in the 72 hour study demonstrated a decrease in anxiety, blood pressure and heart rates. They relaxed. They de-stressed. Participants reported a better overall sense of well being and peacefulness. Those results alone would be sufficient to render the experiment a success, but in addition, participants also reported an increased feeling of creativity and improved problem-solving.
Incredible right? What fantastic news. It only takes 3 days for each us to become healthier and happier. With a simple prescription of some nature in your life, you too, can reduce stress and find more joy.
I had to see the cabins for myself.
The Glass Cabin
DALSLAND, SWEDEN
I headed up to Dalsland in western Sweden to the Glass Cabins located on the Baldersnäs Herrgård country estate in Dals Långed.
I was met by the lovely and charming, Susanne Björk Jensen who showed me around the estate and then gave me a tour of these amazing, innovative glass cabins.
Baldersnäs Herrgård is a beautiful country estate from the turn of the century that has been transformed into a luxury hotel. It sits on a peninsula surrounded by nature’s bounty.
Lake Låxsjön
The estate sits adjacent to a nature preserve where The Glass Cabins are located.
The first cabin sits on a small bluff overlooking Lake Låxsjön. The first cabin is a quick jaunt from the country estate offering an easy journey up for a gourmet meal, a massage or a delicious cup of morning coffee in the English garden.
The cabin has many lovely large trees and offers a sweeping view of the lake. My tour guide, Susanne spoke of waking up there with a mist on the lake, the sounds of birds greeting the dawn, a hint of sunlight peeking up from behind the forest trees. It sounded like a little slice of heaven.
Lake view from the Glass Cabin
The property and nature preserve are both spectacular and the cabins ease gently into the landscape. The cabins are inviting with simple decor and muted soft colors. The simplicity evokes a Zen like feeling. Very inviting. Very relaxing. I wanted to jump right in the bed and take a nap. Curtains are provided along the glass walls to allow for privacy. Even with the curtains pulled, however, the glass ceiling still allows nature to envelope you.
The Glass Cabin. Interior.The Glass Cabin. Interior
The second cabin is approximately 200 meters away and sits atop a small hill surrounded by trees. The second cabin was more secluded than the first cabin, yet it too sported a lovely view of Lake Låxsjön. The second glass cabin also has the added bonus of being steps away from the sauna on the lake.
Lakeside sauna. Baldersnäs Manor.The Glass Cabins at Baldersnäs Herrgård
The original glass cabins used in the experiment are located on a private island of Henriksholm, in south-east Dalsland. These glass cabins are remote, accessible by boat and should be booked well in advance.
A second set of glass cabins can be found in the center of Dalsland region near Lake Iväg. Those cabins must be booked through Dalsland Activities.
The reason I like the glass cabins at Baldersnäs Manor is that in addition to unplugging and unwinding by inviting nature into your room, one can also relax by golfing, taking a yoga class, enjoying a massage and/or partaking in a gourmet food and wine experience featuring local foods.
The Glass Cabins are just a 2 hour drive from Gothenburg.
The Glass cabins at Baldersnäs Manor can be booked by contacting;
One of my favorite escapes when the sun comes out is to ride my bike down to the Limhamn harbor. This California girl needs her sun, sea and sand. Fortunately, there is a wonderful restaurant where I can go and feel slightly like I am at home, Restaurang Kajutan.
Restaurang Kajutan offers views of the Öresund Bridge, boats, and even has its own sandy beach lounge complete with beach chairs.
Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Beach. Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Öresund Bridge from Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
The restaurant has 2 bars – one to serve the outside beach area and another inside. They have a full bar and an impressive wine list.
Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Beach Bar. Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Bar. Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Bar. Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Beach Bar. Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
The food is really good too. They have a menu that offers both seafood and meat. The lunch menu is a great value. The Caeser Salad with chicken is a really good size, and comes with a lot of chicken and a lot of bacon. Paired with a nice white wine and I am one happy camper.
Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
So if you are looking for a place to enjoy some sun, sea air and unwind, head to Kajutan, grab a beach chair, order some lunch and a cocktail.
Beach. Restaurang Kajutan. Limhamn, Sweden.
Kajutan can be found at Bryggövägen in Limhamn, Sweden.
The Wadden Sea National Parks make up the largest system of intertidal sand and mud flats in the world. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to their protection of numerous plant and animal ecosystems, the parks stretch from The Netherlands, through Germany and up to Denmark. The Wadden Sea National Parks are home to countless birds, shellfish, fish, harbor and grey seals, and porpoise.
The area is a birdwatcher’s paradise as it is a popular destination for birds to breed, nest and moult. The parks are also an important winter home for migrating birds. It has been reported that at times, there are as many as 6.1 million birds in the Wadden Sea sanctuary and approximately 10-12 million migrating birds pass through every year. Without the Wadden Sea sanctuary, many European bird species’ survival would be in danger.
If you like birdwatching, a good time to visit is in the spring and autumn. There are so many starlings on the island of Rømø, that many people make a specific trek to the island to witness the phenomenon called The Black Sun. The Black Sun occurs when thousands of starlings murmurate in such a large number that they actually black out the sun.
Starlings murmurating. Photo credit: visitdenmark
The best time for witnessing the Black Sun is early morning and late evening. We were not there at either time but we were able to catch a group of starlings as they prepared for their evening jaunt.
Esbjerg – Things to Do
We started out in Esbjerg. Even though it is the fifth largest city in Denmark, Esbjerg, still feels a bit like a sleepy fishing village. Located north of the island of Rømø, Esbjerg was once Denmark’s biggest fishing harbor. Today it is a popular summer destination for both Danes and Germans. One of the most famous landmarks in Esbjerg is the Svend Wiig Hansen sculpture Mennesket ved Havetor or Men By The Sea.
The men are 9 meters tall and constructed of white concrete. Quite imposing, it is said that the men can be seen from 10 kilometers out at sea. Staring out to the sea, rigid with blank eyes they reminded me of modern incarnations of the heads on Easter Island. They did not evoke happy feelings in me, but instead a feeling of numbness and dread.
According to the artist, they are meant to illustrate the meeting between mankind and nature. The men are seated to represent a time before man rose up and “got dirt” on their hands. For Wigg Hansen, once men rose up and started creating, that was when where things started to go wrong. I find this to be an odd perspective coming from an artist.
Wiig Hansen decided to make the sculpture with 4 men because he felt 4 was more harmonious then an odd number. Again, that concept feels rigid and controlled to me. I guess I am not the right audience for this particular piece, although its sheer size was impressive.
In addition to public art, Esbjerg offers many active pursuits.
Swimming A popular destination in Esbjerg is the Svømmestadion Danmark. Svømmestadion is Denmark’s largest bathing and swimming facility. It is an indoor pool and waterpark – perfect for Scandinavia’s fickle weather.
If you want to spend your days outside, there are a number of options for cycling along the beautiful Jutland coast.
Cycling
The North Sea Cycle Route website can help you plan your perfect cycling adventure. The website offers cycle routes for everyone from beginners to experienced cyclists. There are a total of 1133 km/704 miles of cycle routes to peddle and enjoy the gentle Danish countryside. A popular routes for more experienced cyclers is Cycle Route number 1. Running from the German/Danish border, Cycle Route 1 is 560 km/348 miles.
If you are looking for a more relaxed family cycle trip, the Panorama routes are the way to go. There are 16 routes under the Panorama Route umbrella. The routes are circular and designed to accommodate families.
Photo credit: hwww.visitvejle.com
Each route is between 20 and 50 kilometers long. Most will take you along the Wadden Sea coastline. These routes are more suitable for beginner cyclers and families and every routes have restaurants along the way. There are numerous options for bike rentals in Esbjerg, but two that come recommended are PJ Ferie and Fri Bikeshop Fanø.
Boat Races
If you happen to be in Esbjerg in July, head to the beach to watch the The Tall Ship Races. These magnificent ships with their huge white sails look dramatic racing each other on the Wadden Sea. The race starts in Sunderland, England, sails to Esbjerg, Denmark, then on to Stavanger, Norway with the final leg ending in Harlingen, Netherlands.
Photo credit: Niche Travel Design
Sand Castles Of Sorts
If you are in the area from May to August, a friend told me not to miss the Søndervig Sand Sculpture Festival. Alas, we were too early, but these sand sculptures look unbelievable. More sand sculptures, than castles, these three dimensional sand masterpieces look worthy of another trip. This year’s theme is Wizardry and Magic. Here are photos from last year’s festival.
Hikingis a popular activity in the Esbjerg area. Both the Marbæk Nature area and the Kongeåen river area offer many trails to choose from.
Marbæk – Photo credit: visitesbjerg
Photo credit: visitvejen
If you want to mix it up after cycling, hiking and site seeing, take a canoe ride.
Canoeing A canoe trip on the Kongeåen, will put you smack dab in the middle of history as the river historically marked the border between Denmark and Germany until the reunification in 1920.
A recommended route for your canoe trip along the Kongeå river begins atSøengevej, just east of Vejen. This is recommended because there is any easy launch pad into the water and the site has ample picnic tables and parking.
Photo credit: Foldingbro Camping
If you launch from Søengevej you will actually begin your trip on the Andst Å river for about 30 minutes cruising past the Knag Mølle (Knag Mill) and then meeting up with the Kongeå river. If you want to take a break and have a picnic, you can stop at Hermansens Høj, just past the Knag Mølle. Hermansens Høj offers picnic tables and fire pits for cooking if you want to grill your lunch.
There are numerous places along the way to drop off a car if you plan on only going one way on your trip. Most pit stops offer shelter, fire pits for cooking, tables and toilets.
Fishing They say that the fish are so plentiful in and around Esbjerg, that no one returns from a day of fishing empty handed. There are over 15 different type of fish in the Esbjerg area and one can fish for both fresh water and sea fish. Some of the popular fishing spots are Sneum Stream, Varde Å, Ribe Vesterå, If you plan on fishing, you will need a license which can be purchased at www.fiskekort.dk.
Photo credit: Lars Lundsgaard
The many options for fishing include fish farms where you can rent equipment. If you prefer a fish farm, head to Tjæreborg Fiskpark or Nebel Lake Put & Take
Hjerting Beach Park
The most popular beach in Esbjerg is by far Hjerting Beach Park. At Hjerting one can swim, play beach volleyball, nap in a hammock, or stroll along the the 660 meter wooden promenade. If the tide is low, you can sit on the sea platform. If you miss the low tide, you can still enjoy the platform but you will have to swim out to it.
The island of Rømø is by far the most desired summer destination of the Wadden Sea area and it is easy to see why upon arrival. The place is tranquil and soft on your senses.
Photo credit: Niche Travel Design
Photo credit: Niche Travel Design
Photo credit: Niche Travel Design
Rømø, Denmark
Photo credit: Niche Travel Design
Rømø connects to the mainland by a 10 km causeway (and this is Denmark so of course there is a cycle lane). Traveling along the causeway one senses that you are leaving the hustle and bustle behind. The landscape is flat and consists of mudflats, marshland. The sea wraps itself around you on each side, the sound of birds calling you to their island.
The reason that so many Danes and Germans flock to Rømø each summer is obvious. Like Esbjerg, there are many things to do, however, where Esbjerg feels like a cool city summer escape, Rømø feels remote, removed and relaxed. Esbjerg has restaurants and clubs. Rømø has forests, marshlands and a really big beach.
Hjemsted Oldtidspark
Want to travel back in time with your family? Head to Hjemsted Oldtidspark an historic theme park covering life in the Iron Age. The park is located on the archeological site of an actual Stone Age village from 2000 years ago.
There, one can explore the underground museum with reconstructed graves, the Roman catapults, and a working iron workshop. You can learn crafts, hunting, fishing, agriculture practices and learn about cloth making, weaving and archery.
If you really want to understand life in the Iron Age, Hjemsted Oldtidsparkoffers longer stays and in one of the park’s houses onsite. These stays fill up quickly in high season so if you are interested, book well in advance. You can read more about long term stays here.
For a bit of history of the island, visit the beautiful Sea Captain’s House. This national museum was a whaler’s home in the 1700s. Here you will learn about the important whaling industry that dominated the area’s economy in the 18th century.
The house has a breathtaking view of the Wadden Sea and is furnished with typical 18th century furniture and paintings. There is also a gorgeous wall tiled with Dutch tiles from the period. The barn contains an entire whale skeleton and there is a fence built of whale bones up the road from the museum. Interesting, albeit a bit creepy too.
The grounds and the view are quite nice, and weather permitting, it would be a very nice place for a summer picnic. There is also a cafe on site that serves lunch.
Photo credit: rømø.dk
Drøhse’s House Drøhse’s House is one of Rømø’s oldest houses dating back to 1672. The baroque house is a well-preserved depiction of life in the 17th century. The house was a private residence for the upper class of Rømø throughout the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries.
In addition to the whaling industry, lace was a significant contributor to the island’s economic history. Drøhse’s House provides a peek inside a traditional trading house, and houses a number of exhibitions focusing on lace and lace making, textiles, furniture and glass. An added bonus, in the summer months, lacemakers can often be found working in the house.
A second bonus, be sure to visit the Lace Garden whose landscape was designed to resemble a 200-year-old Rømø lace pattern.
The museum is located on a pedestrian street at Storegade 14 in Tønder.
Rømø Labyrinth Park Looking for something to with tweens and teens, the Rømø Labyrinth Park is fun for teens and adults alike. Photo credit: visitdenmarkPhoto credit: visitdenmark
Puzzles, labyrinths and games, the park is designed to encourage teamwork and cooperation. And you can play their own game krolf – a mix between croquet and golf.
And One of My Favorite Activities: Exploring and Looking For Adorable Cottages
We visited the area off season. The many cafes, galleries and excursion were not open for the season, yet, we still enjoyed our time and I must say that I understand the pull of the area.
I want to return and rent an adorable thatched roofed cottage in the woods. I envision spending my days walking on the beach, going on an oyster safari, vacillating between all the active pursuits and reading a good book. In the evenings I’d watch the starlings murmurate and ponder the wonders of nature. It is said that the Waddden Sea casts a spell on its visitors. I, for one, am spellbound.
As many of you know or have read, Scandinavian winters can be long, dark and cold. Here in Sweden, springtime marks the important renewal of light and hope springs eternal. One thing I love is that it feels as if one day you have gone to sleep and the next you awake to a dramatic burst of color as the bulbs begin to flower all over Sweden. It is quite spectacular really.
Malmö, Sweden
To mark the momentous occasion when light returns to one’s life, the beginning of spring in Sweden starts on April 30th on Walpurgis Eve or Valborgsmässoafton in Swedish. The official holiday is May 1st, but the celebration begins the night before.
Walpurgis (also spelled Walburgis) is celebrated in many countries in Europe, and Sweden is no exception. Valborg (Swedish spelling) has been celebrated in every village and city throughout Sweden since the Middle Ages. Valborg ushers in spring and honors the life and sainthood of an 8th-century nun, St. Walpurga.
Like many Christian celebrations, Valborg has both pagan and Christian roots. In the days before Christianity took hold, farmers were willing to do just about anything to insure a good crop. After all, a failing crop was the difference between life and death. At the beginning of spring each year, farmers attempted to ward off evil, ensure fertility and cleanse the land of winter. Farmers prepared the soil and nurtured it by burning all the dead dry wood, brush and grass to invite new fertile soil to emerge.
Then along came Walpurga. As with most stories from ancient lore, St. Walpurga’s story is varied depending on who is telling it. From what I could gather, Walpurga was a nun who is said to have performed 2 miracles during her life, saving a child from starving with 3 sheaves of wheat and calming a rabid dog. A third miracle, which resulted in her canonization, is said to have occurred after her death.
The story goes that on the day that Walpurga was buried, the rocks making up her tomb started oozing a healing oil. The oil was seeping from the relics that were buried with her. The healing oil provided miraculous cures for ill people and became so significant that Walpurga’s body was reportedly removed from the tomb, dismembered and distributed around Europe to help spread the miracle. I could not find a clear explanation as to why the church would dismember her when the oil was coming from her relics, but I digress . . .
As a result of the healing oils coming from her tomb, Walpurga was canonized on May 1, 870, and became eternally tied to the pagan springtime rituals on April 30th. Today she is considered to be the saint that protects against storms, diseases and plagues, rabies, famine and failed harvests – she is essentially the patron saint of springtime.
Photo credit: Thorskegga
My experience of Valborg today, is that it feels akin to what we call a block party in the USA. I have been told that bigger cities celebrations are more like a carnival, and the student cities are like an all out, city wide, drunken party, but the celebrations that I have attended are sweet gathering of family, neighbors, and friends. People picnic, drink, sing songs. The kids play and then the main event, the bonfire is lit.
The bonfire may be small, medium or large in size. Some are burned on land, others out on the a barge on the water. No matter where it is or the size of the fire, the bonfire is the star of the event. Growing up in California where the grass is often quite dry and prone to brush and forest fires, I had never seen a bonfire up close. They are hot, and powerful, and oddly, a bit enchanting.
A bonfire burning out on the water.
What really struck me though as an American, and a lawyer by trade, was the active participation of children of all ages in the lighting and tending of the bonfire. Children assisted with the initial lighting and then continued to search for things to throw on the blaze. It was like a treasure hunt for flammable items. Not only were they participating, they were playing near and around the fire as it burned. Not a helicopter parent in sight. In the USA not only would each city erect barriers to keep everyone except the expert at bay (and let’s face it, to avoid any liability) but, the majority of parents would not allow their children to lend a hand or play near the fire.
I took comfort though knowing that this celebration and children’s participation in it, have been going on for longer then the USA has been a country. The Swedes seem to know what they are doing. And boy did the kids have fun.
After the fire had burned down, a group of older Swedes began singing odes to spring – songs inviting spring to please hurry and to bring sun, flowers, hiking. Songs about the joy of being outside after a long dark winter.
I could not understand many of the words of the folksongs, but it didn’t matter. The singing lent a nostalgic feel to the event, particularly because it seemed to be an older person’s gig. It was as if there is a societal code at work. The young people burn away the old and prepare for the newness of the world, while the elders remind everyone that people have been welcoming spring in this way for centuries. It was a perfect ending to a lovely evening.
Niche Travel Design 